May 2017 Trip Report: Rome (Day 13)

June 2, 2017

Monday was my last day in Rome! I spent the whole day trekking from park to park around Rome. I think I walked over 15 miles this past Monday. I have not taken the metro or any public transportation once while here. I needed to burn off all these calories from eating!

I found this great link on scenic views in Rome. I chose three places to go and saw more of Rome than I would have otherwise! I started off with Villa Borghese, which is like the Central Park of Rome. It's pretty big and has some interesting sights to see. I liked it a lot but wouldn't say go out of your way to see it unless you want a respite of the bustling city.

After spending a couple of hours wandering around, I headed way across to the other side of town to the Orange Gardens, also known as Giardino delga Aranci. This neighborhood is south of the main sites of the city and you pass by a lot of interesting architecture and sites along the way.

The Orange Gardens is located within a residential community and closes at 6 pm. It's very small but a great overlook of the city. There are no facilities here, just a park and benches but it's very serene and quiet compared to most sights in Rome!

From here I then walked over to the Trasvetere area for some gelato at Gelato del Viale. It was getting quite hot from all the walking so it was a much needed respite!

From here, you can head over to the Gianicolo area which is a huge hill above Rome. If coming from the Trasvetere area, then you're approaching it from the south side and will go up a steep hill and stairs to reach it. Here you'll be greeted with some views of the city but the tree growth is quite high so not really that appealing. If you keep walking north (towards Vatican City and the other side of the park) there will be less obstructed views. It's a nice long walk downhill though if you head north/west.

As you head back down you can basically loop back into the main city area or go toward Vatican City.

Overall a nice way to spend my last day getting more acquainted with all the areas of Rome. I never took the metro and just burned a ton of calories walking all over the city and definitely saw a lot more than anticipated.

May 2017 Trip Report: Rome (Day 12)

May 30, 2017

And on Day 12, my legs gave up on me! According to my fitness tracker on my iPhone, I've walked over 100 miles in the past 12 days. That's an average of 8-9 miles a day! This morning i walked about 5 miles around the city and by 2 pm I had to go back to my room to nap and rest.

Most of the day was spent wandering around different areas of Rome I don't think I've been before (like the Trastevere area which is away from tourists and has low key neighborhood shops and eats). I also went shopping (designer bags are so much cheaper in Europe than the US and you get a 12.5% tax refund up to a limit depending on how much you spend).

For food, I was thankful to have two great meals today. Whenever I'm trying to find a place to eat, I do utilize Trip Advisor and Yelp but you do have to take reviews (even mine!) with a grain of salt because businesses change, cooks can change, people have different taste buds or experience with dining out. I just try to find places with the least amount of negative reviews. If reviews are mostly consistency positive, I'll try it.

Where to Eat in Rome

Besides Ginger (that I mentioned in my previous post), I really enjoyed:

Pane e Salame, a small casual place by Trevi Fountain. Fresh meats and cheeses are the thing to get here. You can do a cutting board tasting of ham or cheeses or sandwiches. I had the ham and brie sandwich and loved it. Everything about the bread and fillings were tasty and complementary in flavor. I also had a glass of nice red wine and water, all for 10.50 euros! On Sundays it opens at noon and I was the second person to be seated (got there at 11;55 am). By 12:15 pm, the tiny place was full! You can do take out too.

Dilla, which is very close to the Spanish Steps. Reservations are recommended but I didn't have one and showed up around 7:15 pm and got seated right away. At this point I'm pretty tired of Italian food (besides tomatoes, I don't think I've had a proper vegetable in days!!) but I wanted to try classic Roman food. So I tried the eggplant parmigiana and the cacio e pepe from here and both were amazing dishes! Especially the parmigiana. The cheese was sooo fresh and perfect. Everything about the flavors and texture of this dish was great. I would totally have this dish again if I could. With wine and water and bread, my whole bill was 41 euros. Ambience of the restaurant was very nice too, very comfortable place.

Parmigiana! One of my fave dishes on this trip

After dinner I really needed to burn calories and found myself near Piazza del Popolo which is a beautiful square. Just next to it is the park and you can climb up the nearby stairs to get a pretty view of the piazza and city.

Scenic view near the edge of Villa Borghese

May 2017 Trip Report: Positano to Naples to Rome (Day 11)

May 29, 2017

On Saturday I trekked from Positano to Rome and got there in pretty good time. I was supposed to meet Seahorsd Car Service at 9:40 am and the driver was about ten minutes late as he was picking up other passengers. Similar to before, it was a private car and he drove us to Sorrento where we connected (not waiting more than a minute!) to the larger van to Naples. I was the first drop off at Naples Train Station and got there at 11:20 am (much earlier than what they quoted me when my ride was initially booked, 12:15 pm). I did not pre-book a train ticket to Rome since I wasn't sure what time I would get there so I paid full price for the ticket (45 euros). If you know what day/time you want to take the train, you can book cheaper tickets online in advance. Also, for the high speed train from Naples to Rome you do not need to validate your ticket but you do if you take the slower, local train I think.

When I walked into Naples Train Station (which seems pretty clean, not as sketch as I remember it from 15 years ago), I didn't realize there are different train companies! I just followed the signs for tickets and went to the left, which is red and has tickets for ItaliaRail. Anyway it was about 11:30 and the cashier told me the next train was at 12:55 pm. That didn't make sense to me since I heard there was a train every hour and then he mentioned it might be with the other train company across the way. However, their one way fare to Rome was cheaper (39 euros) but I didn't want to wait that long!

So I went across to Trenitalia, which I meant to take anyway. You can book tickets and look up schedules in advance online. I bought the tickets at the ticket office, if you do this, make sure you pick the right option when you get a ticket number to get help in person (there were three options and I chose the "A" line which helps with high speed tickets as opposed to the "I" line which helps customers with info). You can also buy tickets from machines but I wanted to talk to the cashier in person just to make sure I was getting on the right train! The high speed train I took was ending in Milan but Rome was the next stop. I got on the 12 pm train (they also assign you a seat reservation and I asked for a seat where it would be easy to keep my luggage with me and the guy put me in 18D car 7, which was great as it's right by the door and there's only one seat in the corner, not two so the extra space was good for my luggage). No one on the train checked my ticket! I'm sure they do but it just didn't happen to me.

After I arrived in Termini Station in Rome at 1:10 pm, I headed straight to the taxi stand outside as I hate lugging luggage alone on the subway. I handed the taxi driver a paper with my hotel address and off we went. Official taxis in Rome are white and this info from hotels.com was really helpful in terms of what to expect when taking a taxi in Rome. I am staying near the Spanish Steps as I wanted to be more central (the area around Termini is sketch) and the fare wasn't bad at all, only 10.80 euros.

Where to Stay in Rome

I love the cute boutique hotel in staying at! I booked it months ago and didn't know too much about it other than it was in the central and safe area of Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps). The hotel is sooo nice and small (meaning there's not that many rooms) and modern and stylish. Wedged between two restaurants, Piazza di Spagna Prestige is comfortable, clean and has everything you need. I'm staying in the Pantheon room and I remember thinking it seemed small but it is not at all! There are two twin beds and a nice bathroom with a rainfall shower. They give a nice small breakfast of baked good every morning as well as fruit and juice and the room also has a coffee machine. The guy at reception looks like he's barely out of high school but is very sweet and helpful and prompt. He gave me great restaurant suggestions (I went to 2 so far and will try another tomorrow).

What I Did in Rome

Since I've been to Rome before, I had zero desire to stand in line and sight see. However I did re-visit Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II. It's a Memorial and I love the grandios building of it all.

I walked around to see Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps too. Both were loaded w tourists! So I didn't stay long. Had dinner at Ginger, which is a modern casual Italian place that offers a twist to traditional dishes as well as salads and juices/smoothies. They also have fresh parm and cheese. Overall very good and recommend it if you want something a bit different and healthy near the Spanish Steps! Lunch seemed a lot busier than dinner (I tried to go for lunch but didn't want to wait so came back in the evening). Highlights of the meal were the grilled scallops (fresh and perfectly cooked on a bed of broccoli cream!), steak (omg so flavorful and juicy) and seared tuna steaks. The tomato pasta was also very good.

May 2017 Trip Report: Positano (Day 10)

May 28, 2017

Spagio Beach in May--got more crowded in the afternoon.

After over a week of walking/climbing stairs, Friday was reserved as a no walking day! I spent the whole day chilling at the main beach in Positano. Well, I stared at it from a little bit away. There is a secluded beach chair rental area called La Scogliera (it's associated with the nearby restaurant but in its own section of concrete and rocks by the water, no sand though a few rentals were on sand) and I picked it because I liked that it was more quiet and the rental (35 euros) included a beach towel and bottle of water. This area also includes food service whereas in Spagio you only get a chair rental.

I showed up at 10:30 am and there was no one there but workers. Granted it was still a little chillier but it gets hot quick when you're in the sun! It was around 70 degrees Fahrenheit when I was there.

As the day wore on, more people showed up. Mainly after 2 pm. I quite enjoyed my stay. My only complaint was that anytime the wind got too strong they would closed my umbrella! I understood why but I try to hide from the sun even though I love being outside. This probably happened 30% of my time there though but I'm just very sensitive to being in the sun.

For lunch, pizza, salads or paninis were available. I went with the margherita pizza which was pricey at 15 euros but I'm vacation so fine. If I had time to look for something better I would but I just wanted to sit and be catered to. It was pretty good though, I ate the whole thing!! Wasn't heavy either, I didn't feel gross as I would if I ate an entire NYC pizza.

The bathroom and changing facilities are nice here as well. Basically it's a luxe way to enjoy the beach and I fully took advantage of it!

Rentals at La Scogliera

May 2017 Trip Report: Amalfi/Ravello/Positano (Day 9)

May 27, 2017

Thursday was an amazing day. It started off kind of bleak--it was drizzling in Positano so not a good time to relax on the beach. I knew Friday's weather was supposed to better for the beach so I decided to head over to Amalfi and Ravello instead. I'm so glad I did because even though Amalfi is so close by, it was sunny!

I wish I started my day off earlier. In my opinion, taking the ferry boat over is way better than the public bus since you don't know when it might arrive. I wish I had gotten on the 10 am ferry from Positano to Amalfi but I took the 11:10 am instead after I had breakfast at my B&B (they have umbrellas!) and got ready, etc. The ferry fare one way was 8 euros and I bought a roundtrip ticket. You buy them right off the ferry deck to the right of Spagio Beach (I checked/took snapshots of the schedule the day before). I knew the last ferry back was at 6 pm but I didn't want to risk being caught in a huge crowd so I aimed for the one before that, at 4:20 pm.

Anyway the ferry ride from Positano to Amalfi was fine, it was raining at the time so didn't really see much and was sitting below deck indoors. Within 25 minutes we reached Amalfi though and the sky was clear and the sun was shining!

In order to get to Ravello, I knew the public bus was the only way to get up there since it sits on top of Amalfi. I found out from the information desk that you can't buy tickets on the bus, you must get them from the Tabacchi shop right across from the bus stop (there is a huge awning that indicates it's a bus stop for all the Amalfi Coast towns--it's about a 5 minute walk to the right as you leave the ferry dock near the parking lot). Tickets were really cheap (2.80 euros I think) compared to taking a taxi up to Ravello which can be 30 euros or so. The bus supposedly comes every 30 minutes so I waited for the 12:15 pm bus with throngs of other tourists.

However as I waited for the bus I started to doubt I could even get on it!!! There were so many people waiting!!!!! Also 12:15 came and went and no sign of the public bus but lots of traffic going by. At the same bus stop, there is also the red tourist bus where you can jump on/off. Luckily there is a city sight seeing tour bus just going between Ravello and Amalfi and it doesn't make any other stops. I asked how much it was and it was 5 euros one way, 9.50 roundtrip. I decided to spend the extra money as I was limited on time, plus the bus was open air which makes it great for pictures and more comfortable to sit in anyway. I'm so glad I did this because I got to Ravello way earlier and more comfortable than if I took the public bus (and I saw so many other public buses that were crowded and packed w tourists standing). So totally skip the public bus and spend the little extra on the red tourist bus for comfort and convenience. Plus you get to hear interesting facts along the way on the tourist bus. The red bus also comes and goes every half hour (whenever it's :15 or 45). It's more reliable since it doesn't stop anywhere else.

By the time I got up to Ravello it was 12:45 pm and I knew if I wanted to see Amalfi town too and get on the 4:20 pm ferry back to Positano, I needed to leave Ravello either by 1:45 or 2:15. So as soon as I got up there I speedwalked everywhere!

Ravello is breathtaking though. I really wish I spent at least a half day, not just a couple of hours. Or even a whole day! It's just so pretty and charming. It truly is a garden city. It is very small so you can see most it in a couple of hours but to really enjoy and take it in, I think half or full day is better. Especially compared to Amalfi which was soooo congested and not as pretty.

The views to the coast are amazing! I thought Oia on Santorini was beautiful (and it is) but I love how Ravello was short and sweet. I didn't have time to eat lunch since I was trying to cram so much sight seeing in a short amount of time.

The main square is lovely and wish I had time to sit and have a snack or coffee. Everything just looks like straight out of a magazine on the Italian countryside. Flowers and trees were nicely manicured and Richard Wagner (composer) is celebrated here.

Walking around town is just magical and serene. Much more calm and secluded than Positano or Amalfi.

I definitely rushed around to see what I could, grabbing some gelato for lunch in the main square. I wish I had more time to leisurely explore!

The most popular attraction up in Ravello is Villa Rufolo. Admission is 7 euros but I think it's so worth it. The villa is spectacular and they hold classical concerts here as the setting is fantastic. Great views of the coast from the villa as well. You can see all this in about 30 minutes if you walk thru quick.

After enjoying what I could of Ravello, I caught the 2:15 pm bus back down. While doing my research I read that staying in Amalfi was better as it's cheaper but I'm sooo glad I stayed in Positano instead. Amalfi was full of tourists!!!! Positano is touristy as well but it's better controlled since you can't really park there. In Amalfi there are huge parking lots which makes bringing in people easier. I did not like it that much. It seemed more 'cheesy' than Positano although souvenirs and shopping is cheaper here.

I kind of wish I spent another hour up in Ravello but I didn't know I would feel this way about Amalfi. I just walked through the main shopping area and then along the coast line while I waited for the 4:20 ferry. I did pick up a small bottle of limoncello for 4 euros (among the cheapest I saw and it had a label verifying that it's made with Amalfi lemons).

The ferries run pretty on time so definitely show up 5-10 minutes before so you don't miss them. There's usually a sign on the boats that say what the next destination is so just look for that as there are many boats that come and go on the dock. There are organizers who will tell you as well.

The ferry ride back was beautiful as the weather was better and I got to sit outside on top of the boat.

After I was back in Positano, I headed back to my room and took a shower. I was dying for a great meal and all the highly rated places near Venus B&B were booked up!! I was not deterred though. I headed over to Da Vincenzo, which I really wanted to try, and at 6:15 pm it was pretty empty since everyone eats later. I asked if I could eat right now and they said absolutely but I had to leave the table by 8. No problem for me! And so I happily sat outside, right by the road, with an amazing view. It's everything I thought dining in Positano would be!

I know some people think sitting outside right next to traffic is gross but it's not too bad...I could smell the diesel fumes 10% of the time and being from NYC, where I've sat outside before and would get soot or micro dust/dirt in my glass of water, that didn't happen at all here. So it may not be perfect but it's not as gross as it is in major cities. For an appetizer I had a fresh tomato stuffed with raw shrimp on fresh mozzarella cheese and it was amaaaaazing!!!! I hardly eat raw shrimp and was afraid to but wanted to try it and it was soooo delicious. And no I did not get sick. In fact I came back the next night (at the same time and got the same table!) and had it again! The waiter recognized me and was pleased. I also had the lobster linguine which was also good and very filling. The next night I didn't want any more pasta so I had the yellowtail dish which was ok. I do recommend this place for the quality and price and definitely get rsvps in advance! Otherwise come at 6 pm to be seated!

After dinner I walked off the calories along the path which goes past the center of town. You can only really walk (with a proper sidewalk) to the last bus stop in town (you wil see people waiting) but it's great views of the town in the evening.

May 2017 Trip Report: Catania to Positano (Day 8)

May 25, 2017

I've been wanting to visit the Amalfi Coast for years . I had been to Capri and Sorrento a year after college but didn't have enough to make it down the luxe area of Southern Italy. I am so thrilled to finally achieve my dream of coming here! It's everything I thought it would be! Beautiful views, laid back vibe, but also classy. I love it here in Positano.

Planning on how to get here was a nightmare logistically. There is so much info and many options you can take. The most popular areas to stay in the Amalfi Coast are Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi. I chose Positano as it's in the middle and I just always loved seeing pictures of it.

Spagio Beach, the main beach in Positano

On Wednesday morning I left for Catania airport at 7:30 am even though my flight wasn't until 11:40 am. I'm so glad I left that early!! While driving to the airport, the exit from the highway was closed so had to take an alternate route. It worked out fine but you never know with these things. Then when I tried to check in, it just took forever! People at the airport were just soooo slow especially at the computer desk check ins. I had a flight with Alitalia from Catania to Naples but apparently when I booked it, I didn't purchase it with the ability to check in luggage. Since I knew my luggage didn't meet carry on requirements I just paid to check it which was 48 euros! Oh well at least my one way ticket wasn't too bad ($92 USD but better to fly one hour than take the ferrry/train for half the day!). Anyway by the time I checked luggage and cleared security, it was 10 am which left me an hour to eat before boarding the plane. Catania Airport is small and there weren't a lot of options to eat.

The flight to Naples ended up being delayed due to congestion on the runway. I landed at 1:30 pm instead of 1 pm and I got an email from my B&B host that the car service he sent for me was about to leave. Luckily my luggage popped up quick and I was able to catch the driver (who was also shuttling 8 other people and I was the last to arrive, whoops). However had he left, the next shuttle was at 2:30 but I'm glad I made it in time.

So if you've been reading this blog, you'll know I value time. Getting from Naples to Positano by public transportation seemed like a nightmare so I asked my B&B host to arrange a dependable private transfer service and he really came through (the original one he proposed had atrocious reviews and when I sent him the link, he found another company which had better reviews). I was picked up by Seahorse Car Service and it was 90 euros round trip which I thought was great since I was traveling this leg of my trip solo and I knew the ride was over an hour long. We made a couple of drop offs as we headed south and before I made it into Positano, the driver stopped somewhere along the way and said I would be changing cars. The next car was right there and instead of a big van it was a nice small luxury call all for me! I think it's because Positano is further away so they have someone else take you the rest of the way. Anyway, service and everything was great and I'm thankful that my B&B host took care of all the arrangements (he sent me the voucher and I will pay him the fee for the ride since I think he covered it already).

if you ride down to the Amalfi Coast, be sure to sit on the right side for amazing views of the coastline!

As for where to stay in Positano, everywhere I looked seemed quite expensive for just one person. Somehow I stumbled upon Venus B&B Inn and I am super thankful I did. Not only is the owner, Gippy, very responsive, but he's so friendly and welcoming and his place is in a great location for the price. For three nights single, I'm paying 285 euros. As for the location, it's on via Fornillo and it's right at the beginning of the long walk down to the main part of town/beach. If you're healthy, love to walk or exercise, this is a great location because although it's a 15-20 min walk to the center of town , it's a beautiful downhill walk and a slightly challenging walk uphill (but not really if you're active). I also liked staying here as it's easy access to the main road, rather than staying somewhere with a lot of stairs to climb. And let me tell you, there are TONS of stairs. I inadvertently climbed 50+ flights twice because I thought I was taking short cuts. And yes, taking the stairs is 'shorter' in distance than walking downhill/uphill but thigh killers are thigh killers. I prefer a mild slope any day!

However one positive thing about taking the stairs is you don't have to watch out for cars. If you walk on the main road back and forth you have to be vigilant with the traffic. It's not too terrible but it can be slightly annoying.

Unfortunately for me it was cloudy when I arrived in Positano. The views were still great though and I spent the evening getting familiar with the town. For dinner I made the mistake of trying to walk to the restaurant from the beach. I ate at C'era Una Volta which was decent but wouldn't say I'd go again (paperdelle bolognese was nice but not omg I have to have it again nice). Anyway it's further uphill than my B&B and from walking up from Spagio Beach, it took me about 40 minutes and I arrived drenched in sweat with aching calves!

Luckily the restaurant has a free shuttle service and when I asked, they kindly let me take it back down.

I spent the rest of my night admiring the view from my balcony. I was also woken up at midnight with loud firecrackers for a wedding celebration! C'est la vie.

May 2017 Trip Report: Ortigia (Day 7)

May 25, 2017

Last day in Sicily was spent eating as much as possible! The pros of staying at a hotel with breakfast is it's easy to access and included in the price. The cons are of course not being able to go out and try breakfast and you might fill up by loading up on hotel breakfast.

On our last full day in Ortigia, I tried not to eat too much to save room the rest of the day. Although Ortigia is very lovely, I think we could've cut it short by a day. But I didn't want to feel rushed which is why I planned to stay in town for 3 full days. You really need just a day or so to stroll around the city. I doubt there is an alley or street we did not walk down on at some point! If you love history and want to see everything, three days is good. But for me, I'm not that interested so I just like sampling food and wandering scenic venues. As I've said in past posts, I have limit to seeing museums and fortresses and churches!

The thing to see in Ortigia, however, is the archaeological park. I read mixed reviews on it and since Greece is still fresh in my mind, I passed on looking at more rocks. We did walk to the park (to get exercise in and walk off breakfast), it's about 20-30 minutes from Ortigia. Tried to wait for the local bus #2 instead but it didn't seem like it was coming!

Highlights of Food in Ortigia

All this was luckily discovered on our last day:

Caseificio Borderi: cheese maker by trade who now makes amazing fresh sandwiches for just 5 euros each! One is enough to share for up to three people (ask him to cut In thirds). The line starts at 9 am and can get long. I was the fifth person in line at 10 am and waited almost 45 minutes! The guy who makes the sandwiches is chatty and he tends to make two at a time (so if you order one w specific toppings he will make an identical one to sell later). My sandwich was on fresh bread with fresh tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, ham, mushrooms, rocket salad, and lemon juice and some other cheese. Was delicious and the cheapest meal we had! There are a variety of different toppings you can request. Great to pick up early in the morning and have it for lunch later in the day. They also sell olive oil and other items.

Everywhere in Sicily you'll find jars of cream of pistachio and pesto pistachio for sale. Pistachio apparently grows very well in Sicily due to the climate so they have tons of pistachio products. We ended up buying cream of pistachio jars as well as cream of almonds. They are delicious! It basically tastes like Nutella but instead of chocolate flavored it's pistachio or almond. We bought large jars for 7 euros and found the price to be about the same (or higher) everywhere. Great for souvenirs too.

Arancini Gluten Free: I love arancini! These hand size rice balls can be found throughout Sicily. In Ortigia we came across a gluten free Arancini fast food place near the center of town. Very cheap, 3 euros each and can totally share one. They have a bunch of options, including vegetarian and seafood and meat. We tried the Italian state one, which is vegetarian and mostly potatoes with a spicy kick to it (it was pretty spicy but good) and the one with beef sausage. Both were delicious and had a nice crunch.

Sicily Fish and Chips: We actually did not eat here but wish we did based on reviews. The internet is not that reliable with hours of operation for restaurants in Sicily so if you want to eat somewhere you should try to find it during the day first and check out if hours are posted. In this case we thought we could come for dinner but when we arrived at 6 pm it was closed. Knowing that most locals eat later we returned after 8 pm and it was still closed on a Tuesday night! Then I saw in one of the reviews that they close after they sell out so maybe that's what happened since many people seem to come here for lunch. Supposed to be fresh fried seafood.

La Tavernnetta de Pietro: Turned out for the best that Sicily Fish and Chips was closed as we got to try this place instead and this was the best meal we had in Sicily!!! Not only was the food so fresh but also so cheap compared to the other two places we had dinner in Ortigia! A large plate of mussels for 7 euros and three perfect pastas that were all 10 euros or less!!! The house white wine was also delicious and half a liter was only 5 euros!!!! Definitely come here for great homemade pasta and fresh seafood. There are two locations (across from one another on the same street but diagonally within a block). On the weekends I think both locations are open but on the weekday only one is. You can sit inside or outside on the pedestrian street. We did not have rsvps though you can make them online. We got lucky as showed up around 8:30 and waited just five minutes for a table. Others after us got turned away, the place was packed.

Sicily was great and we only had time to see the eastern side. Of all the places, Ortigia was my favorite to stay in but I did enjoy visiting and walking around Taormina for the scenic views. Ortigia has more charm but not a ton to do whereas Taormina there seemed to be more to sightsee and explore. Just depends what you like to do and how fast you want to pace yourself. If you don't care for museums, history, etc. you can definitely just spend 5 days visiting both. But if you want to relax and not rush then a week is good.

May 2017 Trip Report: Ragusa (Day 6)

May 23, 2017

On Monday we left Ortigia and headed for the nearby Baroque town of Ragusa. It was about an hour and a half away and I'm glad I did some research on where to park because the streets are super narrow and windy!

The best place to park if you're just gonna walk around for a couple of hours is probably near Piazza della Repubblica, at the bottom of Ragusa Ibla. Ragusa is a city divided into two parts. Ragusa Ibla is to the west and Ragusa Superior is to the east. If you put in "parking lot near Piazza de Repubblica in Ragusa" in Google Maps it will take you there. In general I had no issues at all using Google Maps but I stuck to the cities and not off the beaten road. Parking is public and for free. There was plenty of parking by the time we arrived around noon. At 3 pm it was a lot fuller but still spots left. Another parking area closer to Ragusa Superior is by the garden (Giardini). There is a ton of uphill/downhill/stairway walking in Ragusa but if you love to walk/hike/be physical you'll be fine. Public toilets cost 50 cent euros but were clean.

You can spend about 2-3 hours in Ragusa depending on what you wanna see and how much you want to walk. We were here from noon to 3 pm and that was more than enough for us. The main highlights are the big churches, one in Ibla and the other in Superior, and the garden was very nice too. It's about a 30 minute walk in between the two areas depending which route you take. I'm not big on souvenir shopping (unless it's for food items!) but there were some cute stores around.

View of the countryside from the public gardens of Ragusa

Ragusa is one of the oldest cities in the world and a UNESCO heritage site. Very quaint and a different feel from Taormina and Ortigia.

Afterwards we headed back to Ortigia to walk around and have dinner. The prettiest part of Ortigia is the western side where you can catch the sunset and wander around the scenic paths along the water and restaurants. I especially love the very long promenade underneath the city walls. As you stroll along you can listen to music from the bars/restaurants and people watch.

I also like how the locals just find a spot they see fit and sunbathe where they please.

Dinner was at Schiticchio Pizzeria, which we liked (but not love). Very casual place to eat and many things to choose from. I thought the toppings for the pizza were fresh (tomatoes, cheese, rocket salad)and we tried one of the calzones with ham and cheese. I love ham and cheese so Italy is a great place to sample my fave combo!

May 2017 Trip Report: Ortigia/San Lorenzo Beach (Day 5)

May 21, 2017

Sunday! Usually in Italy things are shut down on Sunday so we planned to go to the beach today. I had done research a while ago and saw that you can rsvp for beach chairs at the private beach of Agua Resort. This resort is right near San Lorenzo beach and is supposed to be one of the best beaches in the area. So after breakfast off we went. It took us about two hours to drive there but it should've taken an hour. There was some traffic on the way to Noto but once we passed the congestion traffic was free.

Agua Resort is kind of misleading. I thought it would be this nice resort with nice facilities but it was more of a collection of beach homes for rent and public facilities. The facilities were nice, clean and casual but I expected something a bit more upscale. Oh well. It was also hard to figure out where to 'check in.' Eventually somehow directed us to a group of Italians just standing around so I went over and showed them my rsvp which they did not have on their beach map. It was fine though, they had plenty of chairs and we rented three beach hairs under a palm tree for 20 euros. I was also told we could rent towels from them (our Ortigia hotel didn't have beach towels) but there were none to rent. Lastly I didn't see any food or drink services!!! Maybe we just too early in the season. It was kind of windy today and too cold to go in the water. Anyway we sat around for a few hours just relaxing. The chairs were nice and clean, not grimy so it worked out not to have towels over them at least.

I do recommend this place for later in the summer but probably too cold for May. It wasn't cold but not really too warm either. The beach was pretty well kept and the colors of the water were clear blue.

Afterwards we came back to Ortigia and explored parts of the city we had seen before. The main attractions seem to be on the northern and western end of the island and it was very lovely to walk around and take in the culture.

Our best meal of the trip in Sicily so far was at Divino Mare. Everything was well cooked and fresh. The mussels were delicious and meaty and the salmon was sooo good. I had the truffle pasta with small shrimp and that was strong flavored and perfectly al dente as well. We also tried the codfish which was good but a tad saltier. All for 68 euros with wine! Cheaper and better quality than yesterday's meal.

Then we walked by the Duomo at night which was beautiful and capped off the night with gelato nearby. Pistachio anything in Sicily is so good!

Pistachio gelato is the best!

May 2017 Trip Report: Giardini di Naxos to Ortigia (Day 4)

May 21, 2017

Finally woke up a little bit later since today was a moving day. I knew we couldn't check into our next hotel until 3 pm (they were very strict on that!) so we hung out in Giardini di Naxos until about 1 pm.

I'm really glad the G7 summit hasn't impacted our trip as I thought it would. It starts next week but for security reasons they are shutting down access to Taormina starting on Monday.

This morning we walked around Giardini di Naxos which is a relaxing beach resort area.

Afterward we drove 1.5 hours to Ortigia, which is in the Siracusa region of Sicily. You need to have a ZLT pass to drive into the island but since we are staying at I Santi Coronati B & B which has free parking, they will register our car with the authorities.

We were so tired from the past few days we didn't so much but walk around the city for a bit and then went to dinner. Dinner was at Alevante, which I made reservations for a while ago and I recommend! Everything on the menu is under 20 euros and though it's a small menu and small staff, it's quality food with great outdoor seating by the sea.

At Alevante we had the buffalo mozzarella, prawns, ravioli, seafood carbonara and grilled veggies with a half liter of white wine, all for under 80 euros for three people.

May 2017 Trip Report: Mt. Etna (Day 3)

May 20, 2017

Friday was spent all day on Mt. Etna, an active volcano that blew up as recently as a month ago! We did the tour with Etna People, who I thought did a fantastic job. I think you can book up to a month in advance as the tours may be altered based on weather and what's happening on the mountain.

We did the Etna Easy tour, which was 149 euros per adult and includes 4 stops--a cable car ride to 2700 meters up, then lunch, then walking around some old craters, then going into a lava cave, then visiting a gorge carved by lava.

We had two tour guides, one who gave the tour in Italian and the other in English so the groups were split whenever necessary. One of the guides who spoke English well was a geologist so they give tons of facts.

The Etna Hard tour goes to the summit but I don't think it was available due to the recent lava eruption last month. It is a bit chillier up the mountain and the tour gives you good jackets and hiking boots to borrow for free if needed.

We were supposed to see the valley at the top but it was too cloudy. Was still cool though, the terrain was all black rocks and sand and felt like we were on the moon instead. You do need to have good balance to walk around since it's so rocky but really if you're remotely fit you can walk around. It was also cool to feel the heat from the surface below. Just pockets of hot air when walking around.

Where the eruption from April 2017 occurred.

Lunch was a typical Sicilian lunch of some veggies with vinegar and two types of pasta. One was ravioli with pistachio cream and beef and the other was a macaroni pasta with mushroom and tomato sauce. Pretty decent, it's lunch at one of those restaurants that caters to tour groups.

After lunch we walked around some craters. We walked around the entirety of the one above which was cool and great views of the area.

Afterwards we headed down to explore a lava cave. They give you helmets to wear and flashlights as it's total darkness and you must watch where you step. We only walked about 0.15 miles in but it felt longer due to the rocky jagged surface!

Lastly we went to see this gorge which was carved by lava flows hundreds of years ago. The water that flows through here is said to be therapeutic for your body and they unite you to soak your feet in the water so bring a towel/flip flops if you're interested in that.

Overall a good tour to do if you're interested in volcanos/nature. A lot of walking is involved so it's quite active. We were picked up at our hotel at 8:45 and our day ended by 6:30 pm.

May 2017 Trip Report: Taormina (Day 2)

May 19, 2017

Taormina is a beautiful little city. Perched above the sea with a grandiose view of Giardini di Naxos below, it reminds me of the charming Greek towns of Oia and Crete. Due to the impending G7 summit next week, there was a ton of military and polic presence all around. I didn't mind though, I'm used to that being from NYC and it made me feel safer walking around. I think many tourists canceled or moved their plans as I didn't find visiting crowded at all at this time of year in mid-May.

I'm glad we stayed a bit further away in Giardini di Naxos as it's cheaper and more low key. In my opinion you can see the highlights of Taormina in two days.

Getting Around Giardini di Naxos and Taormina

The Interbus is the local city bus (blue bus). Fares are cheap, about 1.50 euro one way in between both towns. You can buy a one day pass for ten euros, but it's only worth it if you ride more than 6 times which you probably won't do in a day. You can buy tickets at the Recanati terminal if you're staying near Giardini di Naxos or at the Taormina bus terminal. You can also buy from the bus driver directly.

The timeliness with the bus is a hit or miss. Between the two towns there seems to be a bus (not the same bus but different buses going different routes but at least between these two destinations) every 15 minutes or so. We got lucky and was able to catch a bus from Recanati to Taormina and connect to a bus going to Castel Mola 5 min. after arriving in Taormina bus terminal. On the way back was a different story. The return bus from Castel Mola to Taormina took forever!! We waited over an hour and half to come back down. Even though there was a bus scheduled to depart it never came. It's a long walk down, good for a hike, but we didn't want to walk. A taxi between Taormina and Castel Mola starts at fifteen euros but since we had bought the one day pass we refused to take it. A taxi from Castel Mola to Giardini di Naxos was quoted to us at 35 euros.

Later in the day we walked down from Taormina to Mazzaro and then we took a bus from Mazzaro (where the beach is) back to Taormina. The bus was scheduled to leave at 17:20 but it arrived and left at 17:14 (we were there at 17:10 just in case). So plan accordingly! The next bus after 17:20 wasn't until 18:50.

Highlights of Taormina

I skipped the Greco Theatre since I saw a lot of that in Greece a few months ago. I'm sure it's nice but thought admission was steep at ten euros. What I did like visiting was:

the Public Gardens
walking around Corso Umberto
going up to Castel Moral
walking down to Mazzaro/Isola Bella

The Public Gardens

A nice walk with beautiful views south of city center. Can prob spend just 20 minutes around here walking around, smelling the roses and enjoying the overlook.

Walking Around Corso Umberto

Basically the city's Main Street and full of designer and local shops geared towards tourists. I like just people watching and going from one end of the town to the other (less than a mile walk). Definitely stop for gelato at Gelatomania (near the Port Messina side). Also if you walk to the other end where Excelsior Palace Hotel is, definitely walk towards the hotel and go down to the pool area (piscina) to find awesome views as well.

Castel Mola

Castel Mola is a tiny town perched father up from Taormina. You can walk here but it's a quite a hike. One hour is good enough to see the town and the remains of the castle at the top. Breathtaking views of the sea below and of Mt. Etna. There's shops and cafes in the town and the bus stop is also a wonderful overlook.

Mazzaro/Isola Bella

The walk from Taormina city center down to the beach is about half an hour. It's a nice walk and not too challenging if you like to walk in general! You also see more of town life and pretty views of the water. Walking back up is more challenging though as you will have to go up a ton of steps but going down is totally relaxing and fine.

Once you reach the bottom of the walk, you have to cross the street and go down more steps to actually get to the beach. About 5 minutes. The beach is pretty and not too big. Water is crystal clear and you can rent chairs from the restaurants there.

Isola Bella is an island that you can across a narrow sand path to and you have to pay admission to go on the island. I just went to see it but didn't bother to try to access it. It's pretty but that's all I can say! I didn't spend more than an hour here because of the delay we had with the bus at Castel Mola. By the time we got here it was 4:30 and didn't want to stick around til 6:50 pm for the next bus up so we took the 5:20.

The bus stop to go back to Taormina is right in front of Cafe Isola Bella (which is to the right once you come down from the stairs to Taormina). You can buy bus tickets at the cafe.

All in all, Taormina was nice to visit and glad to have seen it before the G7 summit rolls into town! The city shuts down to all visitors this upcoming Sunday the 21st.

May 2017 Trip Report: Taormina/Giardini de Naxos (Day 1)

May 17, 2017

15 years! That's how long it's been since my very first visit to Italy. I can't believe so much time has passed since then. Traveling in your 20s vs. 30s is a huge difference. I definitely know more about myself, what I like/dislike, how to manage my time and resources, how to approach people, and not gonna lie, having more spending power is great!! Gone are the days when I was frugal to every cent. I mean, I still appreciate the value of a dollar but I also appreciate time management and comfort as well!

This Trip is all about Southern Italy. Well, parts of Southern Italy. At the moment I am on the isle of Sicily. I was a bit hesitant to come but due to work, this is the only time of the year I can come here. But it coincides with the G7 Summit being hosted in Sicily as well so I rearranged my plans to avoid it.

Getting to Sicily

I did a lot of research on visiting Western Sicily vs. Eastern Sicily. Given that I was just in Greece a few months ago and Sicily has a lot of Greek influence/artifcacts, I decided to focus on Eastern Sicily which seemed to have more of its own character and I liked the proximity to Mt. Etna.

If visiting Palermo, you fly into Palermo airport. If visiting Taormina, Catania, Syracuse, or Ragusa, the Catania airport is the best.

I flew via Alitalia and had a connecting flight via Rome to Sicily. The connection was easy to make within an hour. I would say 30-45 minutes is cutting it close. Once you arrive in FCO (Rome's international airport) at Terminal 3, it's about a 10-15 min walk to the domestic terminal, terminal 1. You do have to go thru customs here at FCO (and not again in Catania) and it might be a good idea to grab euros at an ATM as you see one! I didn't see any in Catania airport but possible I missed thm.

The flight between Rome and Catania is short and smooth--only one hour! After we arrived in Catania, we tried to find Avis for our car rental but apparently, unlike other rentals, the Avis station is not in the airport! It's outside to the right of the terminal (just look for all the car rental signs), about a 3-5 min. walk.

I was a bit nervous about our car rental because I booked it through Autoeurope UK and not Autoeurope US. For some reason U.K. has better deals and prices than the US (by a significant amount of at least $100 USD) which is why I used it. I thought Avis would say something but they didn't say anything so it doesn't matter what resident you are. I think Autoeurope U.K. can negotiate better deals and rates with car suppliers than the US. We did get the excess insurance with Autoeurope but since we wanted to be really cautious and have roadside assistance we got the total coverage insurance. This was about 24 euros a day in addition to our already paid AutoEurope voucher ($259 USD, it was $360 when I booked months ago but a few weeks earlier I checked and the rate dropped and was able to get it at a cheaper rate!).

After we got our car we headed to Giardini de Naxos, about 45 min. away. There is a toll. booth along the way so just grab a ticket and proceed. When you exit the autostrada is when you pay. Our ticket was 1.50 euro and the booth is manned so you will get change.

Where to Stay in Giardini de Naxos

We are staying at Hotel Villa Daphne and though it's only been a few hours, I'm glad we came across it. The staff is super friendly and they have a small parking lot beneath the hotel for 10 euros a day. There is free parking a few minutes walk away though on one of the side streets. But it's also great for its proximity to the Recantini Bus Terminal Station. It's literally two minutes away by walking and here you can grab a ride to Taormina.

Accss to Taormina

Maybe we got lucky but despite the preparations for the G7 summit, we had no problem getting into Taormina today. The bus ride to and fro was no more than 30 minutes. Sure there's a lot of military and police presence but it makes me feel safer. Plus I guess I'm used to that from NYC. Will see how tomorrow goes with access! I expected security checkpoints or closed off roads but we didn't encounter any...yet!

Food Adventures

Granita is the bomb!!!! I read about it online and didn't know what to expect but it is sugar and fresh fruit goodness rolled into one. BamBar in Taormina is famous for it and did not disappoint. Fave flavors were hazelnut and melon.

Had dinner in Giardini de Naxos at a pizza place called Valentino and tried the vegetarian pizza and pizza with pistachio sauce and prosciutto. So good! And affordable prices as well. I wouldn't say it's the best pizza I had in my life but was freshly made and good quality.

April 2017 Trip Report Part II: Sedona, AZ

May 11, 2017

The drive to Sedona from Page was pretty scenic. Coming down on US Route 89S (rather than from the Coppermine Road that I took the way up) was gorgeous. And then the windy road from Flagstaff to Sedona was a fun and interesting drive as well (you don't pass Sedona on the way from Phoenix to Page--you could but you would driving extra distances). I'm glad I stayed here during the week (Thursday and Friday night) as it's a small town and I can see how traffic/crowded it can get on the weekends and in prime tourist time.

Sedona is a pricey place to stay though. I stayed at Poco Diablo Resort, which was nice but kind of pricey for what it was. But it was the cheapest of the nice hotels that I could find (got it for just under $200/night). I could've stayed somewhere cheaper but I didn't want to be too far from the center of town and I did want a nice room to come back to after hiking all day. Poco Diablo is very clean and comfortable with a pool, tennis court, and golf course, none of which I used! Sedona is at a high elevation so it was kind of colder especially at night. In April the temp. ranged from 40 degrees in the morning to 60-70s midday. Poco Diablo is also about a 5-8 min. drive from the center of town which was nice as it was quiet and not as much traffic near the hotel.

What to Do

There is tons to see in Sedona! I saw all the major highlights. I've ranked them in terms of my favorites:

Devil's Bridge Trail Hike
Cathedral Rock
Bell Rock
Chapel in the Rock

Devil's Bridge Trail Hike

I'm really glad I did this hike. I was nervous to go solo as I'm not an experienced hiker but it felt safe and was fine. The hike is about 3.4 miles roundtrip from the main parking lot. It's best to do this hike as early as you can because there is no shade and could get really hot later in the day. Also, you don't have to worry about parking or people since it's less crowded earlier in the day. By the time I returned to the lot at 9:30 am (I got there at 7:30 am) the lot was full.

Anyway, there is a parking area you can drive to but the road is quite rocky and jagged. I would not want to risk damage to my rental car! The mile walk up the road to the actual trail isn't hard, it's just a bit sandy and rocky. Once you get to the 2nd parking area (which is strictly for 4x4 SUVs), it's less than a mile to the actual bridge but there is some rock scrambling involved, meaning you have to pull yourself up some rocks to get up. It's not too difficult though (normally I hate stuff like that but it was enjoyable and I also had gloves on). The views on the way to the bridge are also amazing and the best from my time in Sedona. Really loved it and this was my favorite hike.

Yes you can walk onto the bridge but I was too chicken to!

I did walk to the BASE of the bridge that extends out, but didn't want to go the most narrow part.

Cathedral Rock

I was pretty tired after Devil's Bridge but went on to Cathedral Rock after. This hike is definitely more of a scramble to the top, but it was super windy and kind of steeper than I liked so I only made it up 80% of the way. I enjoyed the views and visiting, but definitely not for me to get to the top!

This is where I stopped--I think this is called the 'vortex' and it's sooo narrow and it was super windy and since I was solo, I just didn't feel comfortable going up alone.

Bell Rock

Bell Rock is similar to Cathedral but higher up and even more steep. I was quite tired from the first two hikes so I didn't really do much of this one. You can also walk around the base of Bell Rock but it didn't seem that interesting to me after an awesome hike like Devil's Bridge.

Chapel in the Rock

Chapel in the Rock is an actual church built into a rock. I'm not particularly religious but I thought it was cool to see and experience. In general, there's some sort of 'energy' in Sedona driven by the 'vortex' and each major sight seeing visit has the 'vortex' pulsing thru. Chapel in the Rock is one of the way (and I believe all the other sites I visited have it too).

Boynton Canyon

On my last morning, I wanted to do a short hike into Boynton Canyon. I parked, got out, started walking into the trail, and then saw a sign warning about bears! So since I was solo I decided not to go, especially because the trail didn't look as 'obvious' to me. The parking lot was full but I didn't want to tag along someone else's hike so I decided to leave and head down to Scottsdale for my work conference.

However, as I walking out of the trail, a random older man walked up to me, handed me a heart-shaped stone, said it was full of the energy of the "vortex" and wished me a great day. It was a lovely way to end my time in Red Rock country!

Food in Sedona

Sad to say, I didn't have an AMAZING meals in Sedona. The food wasn't bad, but I found most restaurants to be a bit pricey for the food you're getting (ie like tacos). Granted Sedona caters to a more upper middle class crowd, and I'm sure there are cheaper places too, but I just didn't find any place really that worth recommending (though I did not have a bad meal).

I did love this Acai bowl place called Berry Divine though that was near Devil's Bridge. I've never really eaten these before and I loved it so much I found another one in Scottsdale and went back to get it!

Sedona is beautiful and relaxing and has something for everyone. Hope to return again someday!

April 2017 Trip Report Part I: Page, Arizona

May 9, 2017

Last week, I went out to Arizona for a work trip (conference) but took an extra three days to explore northern Arizona. For the past few years, I've been itching to see Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon and both did not disappoint!

Getting to Page, Arizona

To get to Page, Arizona is not an easy feat from the East Coast. There are no direct flights, so if coming from NYC (or other major East Coast cities), your best bet is to fly directly to Phoenix as early as possible and then rent a car and drive 4 hours to Page. This was quite a long trip and I am SUPER glad I took the first flight out at 6:30 am from JFK as the rest of the day did not go quite as planned...

Due to my early flight, that meant I also had to be up at 3:30 am to get to JFK by 5 am from Manhattan. I can never sleep well whenever I take an early morning flight (the anticipation of waking up/not missing the alarm) so I was pretty sleep deprived by the time we landed in Phoenix (about a 5 hour flight direct). We landed at 9 am Phoenix time though, but by the time I got my car rental and left the airport, it was almost 10:45 am. The first thing I did was drive to the nearest Walmart about 15 min. away to stock up on water and snacks for the road, then I hit up the infamous West Coast burger and fries franchise In and Out for lunch and by noon, I was on the road.

It's generally a very straight drive from Phoenix to Page and though the speed limit was like 75 mph, you're going uphill most of the time (northern Arizona like Sedona, which is on the way, is at a higher elevation which means it's also cooler). My car rental didn't have strong pick up speed even though it was an SUV so I wish I was flying faster but I was just going about 75-80 mph max. (not that you should be speeding but I usually like to think +10 over the speed limit is okay and most were going way faster than me!). Anyway, about an hour into my drive, I GOT A FLAT TIRE!!!!!

I've never gotten a flat tire on my own...This was also the second time ever in life renting and driving alone. Thank goodness the woman at my Enterprise car rental had asked me if I wanted roadside assistance before I drove off the rental lot! Usually to keep costs down I turned down all the car insurances/packages, etc. But when she asked if I wanted roadside assistance (which is only like $6.99/day and basically a tow truck will come help with any car issues) I had a bad foreboding feeling and got it just in case.

I was also lucky the flat tire happened early on during the drive. Between Phoenix and Page, there is basically nothing but mountains and desert road (although when you pass thru Flagstaff there is civilization). I was a mile away from a gas station so I pulled off the highway and called for help when I was at the gas station (which was in a safe area, thankfully). Took about an hour for the tow truck guy to come and he was able to change my tire in about 5-10 min. So I didn't know this before and will share this to others who may not as well. When you get a flat tire:

you cannot drive more than 50 mph on a spare tire
you cannot drive more than 50-100 miles with a spare tire on

I did not know this! In my mind (before I found out) I thought I was gonna just be driving the car around with a spare. Anyway, so I found out I needed to switch out my car at the nearest Enterprise so off to Flagstaff I went (driving oh so slow at 50 mph while everyone else was whizzing by). Luckily it was within 50 miles of where I was. So I get to the Flagstaff Enterprise rental at the airport (no direct flights from NYC, otherwise I would've tried to fly into Flagstaff to cut driving time!), and the guy tells me he has no cars to give me!!!! It's about 3:30 pm at this point and I'm hungry, sleep deprived, and generally cranky from the whole tire situation. Plus everything closes by 6 pm (like the rental car office and the garage) so I was feeling nervous. And I forgot to mention earlier that my car was pretty new (only 5K miles on it!). So the car rental guy called the local garage who had the exact tire I needed to replace so he sent me over there to switch it out. It was about a mile away, and when I got there, I see how busy they are and not feeling happy about having to deal with all this (I didn't have to pay for the tire though). The mechanics there were really nice though and took care of me, within 45 minutes they switched out the tires (they said they couldn't repair the flat, the tire melted too much! It was quite hot on the road). So by the time I got back on the highway again, it was close to 5 pm and I still had 2.5 hours to drive!

At this point, I start to race against the sun. As I head north, there are less and less cars on the road, and zero services. Ok, not COMPLETELY zero, thank God there was ONE service area about 1.5 hours from Page. It's in Cameron, Arizona and it's near the Navajo Trading Post. There is also a Conoco gas station there but it's pretty deserted so it feels a bit sketch. I initially saw the gas station first and wanted to pull in and use the bathroom but it didn't feel safe to me (lack of people) so I drove down the road further to the Burger King and used their facilities instead (more people and definitely a tourist bus stop area I believe). Otherwise, there was NOTHING to stop at between Flagstaff and Page. I was feeling nervous too--what if I somehow popped another tire??? The tow truck guy told me flats happen often on the highway from all the traffic/debris from trucks. Anyway, at this point in the day with light fading, I was not feeling great driving solo but I was thankful I started my day early.

For GPS, I was using good old Google Maps, and I knew that at some point, it was taking me off the major highway of route 89. To get to my hotel, it took me onto Coppermine Road which is like a highway road except it's one lane in both directions and less cars!!! However, on my return trip, I was glad my GPS took me on Coppermine Road north because I came back south on US route 89 and saw that it is a HUGE incline up on one segment of the road whereas Coppermine Road was flat the whole way. The difference in length between the two is only 5 miles and while 89 is a more commercial road, I guess I'm glad I was on Coppermine.

So, long story short, I got to my hotel RIGHT at dusk and I was thrilled I made it but had zero energy for anything else and basically went straight to bed. Not sure if I would ever put myself in a situation like that again! I mean, everything turned out fine but I didn't like how I felt uneasy driving solo so remotely and without much energy.

Hotel in Page

I stayed at La Quinta Inn Suites, which was great. Feels like a new hotel and the staff is super friendly. My rate $135 USD included breakfast too but I never ate it (I opted for nearby McDonald's to save time after I finished seeing Horseshoe Bend). I highly recommend as an affordable and central place to stay. It's less than a 10 min. drive to Horseshoe Bend and most restaurants, about 15 min. away from Antelope Canyon.

Horseshoe Bend

My initial plan was to see Horseshoe Bend the afternoon I arrived. Since that obviously didn't happen, I got up at the crack of dawn (5 am) to see it at sunrise (which was at 5:30 am in mid-April). I am SO glad I did!!!! Most people recommend seeing it at sunrise and after seeing it, I understand why. The bend faces East, so as the sun rises, you see the colors of the canyon change. If you see if any other time of day like afternoon the face of the canyon will be in shadow of the sun.

It's also completely safe to see/do on your own. When I arrived in the parking lot, there were about 10 cars there too. It wasn't too cold, about low 50s, and it wasn't windy yet. It got windier as the morning went on. FYI, it just gets really windy in northern Arizona! On my drive from Page to Sedona, the winds were so forceful I could feel the car waver thru it!

The walk from the parking lot to the overlook is easy--you walk uphill in sandy terrain and then downhill, all less than a mile. The path is wide and easy to follow.

There are zero barriers so as you approach the canyon, just be careful and watch where you step. And don't let young kids run around too freely! There were less than 10 people when I arrived at sunrise (mostly pro photographers who had their tripods set up!) on a Thursday morning. I'm glad I did this early because when I left in the afternoon the parking lot looked quite full. I stayed here for about an hour, just watching the colors of everything change from muted colors to bright vivid ones as the sun came up. I'm also glad I came earlier as the higher the sun rose, more flies seem to flit about and we also heard the waking sounds of far away coyotes! Overall, despite my horrendous travel the day before, the views here were beautiful and worth the trek out from Phoenix.

Horseshoe Bend at sunrise (but before the sun gets too high up)

Logistics

Another thing to know--the time out here can get confusing!!! Because parts of this area are close to Utah, your cell phone signal might show Mountain time, instead of Pacific time. Depending on the time of year, this matters. In this case, I was visiting in April, after Daylight Savings Time is in effect, and I knew that Arizona was on Pacific time but while I was in Horseshoe Bend/Antelope Canyon, my phone would show time an hour ahead. So be careful! When I left Horseshoe Bend, it was about 6:30 am Pacific time (although my phone said 7:30 am, but my car's time was correct so I would refer to that if I got confused) and instead of catching breakfast at the hotel, I went to McDonald's which is very close and got drive thru and ate at the parking lot. The reason why I did that was because I needed to be at Upper Canyon to make a walk-in rsvp at 8 am and then I needed to be in Lower Canyon by 8:10 am to check in for my tour. And I wanted to make sure I had time to digest/use the bathroom before I went to either one! So I just ate as fast as I could, got back to the hotel by 7 am, rested for about 30 min., then headed back out around 7:45 am.

So about booking tours for Lower Canyon/Upper Canyon. I read a lot about this and based on my experience:

Definitely visit both. Do Lower Canyon first (which is longer and more interesting to see) and do Upper Canyon at prime time (which is 11 am or noon, depending on the time of year you go).
You do NOT need a rsvp for Upper Canyon! Everyone tells you you need one but you don't! Even my hotel receptionist at check in! On Trip Advisor I read mixed things about making a rsvp. And yes, you do need to if you choose to use one of the big touristy upper canyon operators. If you go with Antelope Navajo Tours, you can totally just show up and sign up for an 11 am or noon slot. However, when you look on their website, you don't see this option at ALL which is why it's confusing (I guess they purposely don't post it). My friend had done the same a couple of years ago so it doesn't seem like anything has changed. I showed up at 8 am and only 3 other people were in front of me (they have two lines, one for walk-ins and the other for online rsvps).
For Lower Canyon, I used Ken's Lower Canyon tours and I'm so glad I did. They were fun and well organized and definitely get on the first tour ASAP! This you can (and should) rsvp in advance. I got on the 8:20 am tour (I booked for 8:40 but they let me change it since they had room). Both Navajo and Ken's tours are LITERALLY across the road from each other (two minute drive, if even that) so if you plan this right you can hit both. First, hit Upper at 8 am when they open to sign up for the 11 am or 12 pm tour and then sail over to check in for the early Lower Canyon tour. Hold onto your ticket for Lower Canyon so you don't have to re-pay the $8 permit fee for the park when you do the Upper Canyon tour later.
Another reason why you want to do Lower Antelope as early as possible is because (according to my guide at least) it looks best early in the morning and it's less people. When I was signing up for the Upper Canyon tour, the lady said I might not make it back in time if I did the Lower first because the day before, there was so much congestion that people got backed up for 2-3 hours! I can see how this happens if you start the Lower Tour later like 9 am. You might not make it for the 11 am Upper. I did Lower at 8:20 am and by the time we entered the canyon, the line in grew super long so being an early bird pays off! I finished Lower Canyon by 9:30 am, plenty of time to catch the 11 am and better safe than sorry!

Lower Antelope Canyon

As I mentioned earlier, Ken's Lower Canyon tour ($25 USD) was great. It's next to another one (Dixie) so make sure you drive into the right lot. They own this part of the canyon so when the gov't shuts down, they're still operating (unlike National Park Services). I loved the guide we had--they probably train all the guides the same. They know where to take ALL the best pictures and they're quick too! Each guide gets about 6-10 people to bring in and they have multiple guides for all the time slots. They were so friendly and efficient.

Lower Antelope Canyon is a different experience than Upper. It's about a mile walk through roundtrip and involved climbing ladders (nothing no can handle unless you're in some way physically disabled, in my opinion) but it wasn't strenuous. They do tell you that flash floods are possible and if they throw out ropes into the canyon, you best scramble up on them! The day I went was clear as day though (with some winds) so definitely watch the forecasts.

Going earlier in the day is better so you don't get backed up by all the various tourist groups that eventually trek/angle for space for pictures. Again, I loved our guide because he was efficient and assisted us with telling us where to take pictures and sometimes would take pictures for us that you would never realize is an amazing shot!

I have a million pictures from the tour but the above are some of my favorites. I finished the tour within an hour and liked it more than Upper as there was more to see and felt more exciting climbing up/down and going through narrow crevices.

Upper Antelope Canyon

Upper Antelope Canyon is a different experience. It's a much shorter walk than Lower, and you have to ride out on a jeep with a tour company to get to the entrance. It's also a flat, in/out walk into the canyon. The whole experience takes about an hour as well due to the 3 mile drive (one way) to the canyon and back. It sounds like it would be a quick drive but it's not because they're driving on sand. Depending on the level of wind, you should prepare yourself for getting covered in sand and you might want to bring a scarf to help cover your mouth/nose from the dust!

As I mentioned earlier, I went with Antelope Navajo Tours. Don't bother trying to call them. I called them several times before my trip and only ONE time (the first time I called actually), someone picked up. Anyway, you can book a rsvp online on their website but they do NOT let you rsvp for the popular times of 11 am or noon, but it is TOTALLY available if you go as a walk-in. You can sign up for the professional photo tour if you have fancy cameras ($120) but the guided one hour tour ($48) is sufficient. By the way, all my pics were taken with my iPhone 7 (I am too lazy to invest in fancy equipment!).

When you show up to sign up, it looks very make shift (compared to Ken's Lower tours, which has an actual building). There's basically some tables and benches set up underneath shade but otherwise don't expect any type of facility here!

I was lucky and got on an 11 am tour with an organized tour group who was using them as well. Since I was solo, they just stuck me on with them and we were the first to arrive at the canyon (amongst all the groups that were going at the same time) so it wasn't as crowded when I went with this group since we were among the first to arrive for that time slot.

Got lucky and saw some some beams in the canyon (which only appear in the middle of the day) but to see the ULTIMATE sun beams, it's better to be there at 12:30 pm (for April at least).

To Eat in Page

After I finished the Upper Canyon tour, it was about 1:15 pm and I was starving! So I headed over to El Tapatio which is in the center of town and an authentic family-run Mexican restaurant. The food was delicious!!! I had the carne asada, which is skirt steak with rice and beans and it sounds simple but it was amazing! Super juicy and flavorful. I wish I could've eaten here more than once but I basically left Page to drive down to Sedona after I ate.

Before I drove off though, I did stop by Glen Canyon Dam to have a look. I wanted to go down to see Lake Powell too but since I was spending the next two nights in Sedona, I just wanted to get to Sedona ASAP (2.5 hour drive from Page).

Overall I had a wonderful time cramming everything in one morning in Page and highly recommend visiting!

Feb. 2017 Trip Report: Houston, Texas

February 25, 2017

I wanted to go somewhere for President's Day weekend, but wanted to go somewhere much warmer than NYC but not longer than a four hour flight and reasonably priced. My two options were Savannah or Houston, and since I was treating my mom, she picked Houston to bank on the weather (turns out Savannah's weather was about the same, and was sunny the whole weekend while it rained half the time while we were in Houston--oh well!). We booked the trip back in November and was able to get a direct flight and hotel stay through Expedia for just under $600 per person.

Where We stayed in Houston

I stayed at the Whitehall Houston, which is right at the edge of downtown Houston. While I enjoyed our stay overall, I was kind of disappointed in our room. The hotel gave us a handicapped room, which I wouldn't have mind except the shower area seemed small. It was basically a small area with a curtain and it just seemed that water would get everywhere since there was no door/tub/etc. So I called the lobby to change rooms and they were nice enough to allow us to, but the next room we had were right behind the hotel elevators! As we were settling into the room, I kept hearing rolling mechanic sounds and it took me a while to realize it was the elevators! I didn't want to change rooms again though, the noise eventually lulled me to sleep but it was a bit annoying. Also, when we arrived, the room had two bottles of water that seemed complimentary so we took them. Then the next evening we were given only one bottle and the last day none! So I am confused as to whether we were supposed to get water or not. The hotel also only had valet parking available. Upon my research for hotels, I think that's the case for most hotels located in the city center but I thought the prices for Sunday were a bit excessive. Friday and Saturday night valet parking is $19/night but Sunday jumps to $29! So overall, I did like the hotel for its location and the staff was fine, but the minor things like the room comfort, water bottles, and parking gouge for Sunday night were the "cons" to me. The hotel was very clean though and also has an outdoor pool, which we did not use since it was not warm enough. So I would say stay here only if you can get a good deal.

Highlights of Houston

There are tons of resources online of what to do in Houston. The information that was most helpful to me for planning was Thrillist's list of 50 free things to do in Houston. I also was NOT in Houston on a Thursday, but if you find yourself there on a Thursday, a bunch of their museums are free so plan accordingly!

For our trip, we saw/visited:

The Heights' 19th Street Shopping District: This stretch of vintage/antique shops is about 20 minutes from downtown Houston. If you love antique/vintage shopping this might be worth a look. It's about two city blocks long, so you can pretty much browse the block in less than half an hour. Parking is free on the street.
Discovery Green: An urban park in downtown Houston, not much was going on when we went. You can stroll thru it in 15 minutes! Easy to find street parking (metered). Probably more lively in the summer. Had these cool flower sculptures below though.

The Downtown Underground Tunnels: It rained half the time we were in Houston. On the first day we arrived, it rained most of the day! Luckily, because we were staying downtown, we were able to get around the city center by going underground. These tunnels span over 6 miles and is meant for city workers to get around when the weather is too hot out or raining. There is NOTHING worth seeing in these tunnels though--everything below was fast food, fast food, fast food places and then a random Hallmark-type shop here and there. However, it was interesting to see all the people working in the area file thru the tunnels like ants on their lunch break. You can wander in/out of office buildings that lead into mini mall areas so you can probably kill an hour or two here if you just want to move around the city and the weather is bad, but otherwise, there is not much to experience here. Also, it's easy to get around if you just follow the color-coded maps. I think the tunnels are closed on non-office working days/hours though.

The Galleria: Another option to kill time when it's raining. This mall is about 20 minutes from downtown and it is HUGE!!!! Probably one of the biggest malls in America I've ever been to. It has every single store you can imagine for clothes/shoes/dept. stores, etc. It even has a indoor ice skating rink!
Hermann Park: Huge park in the city center. Can be hard to find parking though there are dedicated lots. I think Lot C is the bigger one so a little easier to find parking. Can rent a paddle boat or just stroll around. This park seems bigger and more family-oriented (more picnics, more lawn space) than the Buffalo Bayou one (where you seem to find more bikers and joggers and distinct trails).
The Johnson Space Center: This was by far the best part of visiting Houston, especially if you are a bit of a space nerd like me! I've always been fascinated with space since I was a kid and to see scientists and artifacts from past missions was surreal. I was in awe of all those who work here and to think about all the work that goes into exploring a realm beyond Earth.

Tips on visiting the Johnson Space Center

Buy tickets online. When you do, you have to pick 'times' for when you want to do the tram tour and visit the shuttle (they call it the Orbiter tour online). I don't know if it's because we went on off-season day, but no one checked on the times you actually entered these exhibits but a lot of what I read online recommend that you get a timed entry. We went on a Saturday, and the center opens at 10 am. Definitely start your day as early as possible so you can see as much as you can. The highlights are the tram tours, the Journey to Earth movie, and then check out the Orbiter tour. Below is a picture of what you are allowed to board/explore at the end of the Orbiter (the Endeavor Shuttle!) tour.

For the tram tour, note there are TWO TRAMS. Although most reviews suggested to allocate 90 minutes total to both tours, it took me two hours because there was some congestion/crowding to get on the trams. Also, if you do buy tickets at the center instead of in advance, you can rsvp for timed entry later but honestly, I don't think they check unless it's super crowded. To risk wasting time, just take these tram tours ASAP. The two trams are the blue line, and the red line. Start with the blue line, which will take you to the Mission Control Center--which is 100% for reeeeeals! This stop lasted no more than 5-7 minutes. We were lucky and it turns out that just as our group arrive, the sun was rising above Earth from the vantage point of the International Space Station that's orbiting Earth. Sunrises like this last 3 seconds! And astronauts up there get to see a sunrise/sunset every 45 minutes during orbit.

At the end of the first tram tour, you will end up at Rocket Park. You get off and can explore some of the rockets that were launched on previous missions.

I thought this was the coolest thing to see in person. While this looks like a continuous unit below, it's actually 4 separate pieces (which you will see that it is as you walk alongside of it). You can see rocket park in about 15 minutes, after which you get back on a tram to the main center. This is where we had line congestion, because both blue and red trams take you here before ending back at the museum. So after you get off here on the blue tram, explore rocket park, go back to the museum, get online again to take the red tram, and skip the rocket park on the way back.

The thing to see on the red tram tour is the place where current missions are being prepared for. it's in a warehouse-type place that spans a couple of football fields, and you will see people at work and all the models they have. The 'next big thing' they seem to be working on is called Orion, and the mission is to one day send humans to Mars and to travel back!

After the tram tours are over, you can check out other parts of the museum but I think the other main highlight is the movie shown at the Journey to Earth theatre. It talks about the history of past space missions and is engaging. Then you can head to Independence Plaza (ie Orbiter tour aka visiting the shuttle) and see artifacts, including touching a rock from the moon (it felt smooth, after years of probably millions of people touching it!).

Above: Last spacecraft to return to us from the moon. Below: Model of what it was like for astronauts on the moon.

Overall, I really found the visit to the Space Center educational and interesting. It's great for kids and adults. If you have zero interest in space though then skip this!

Menil Collection: The Menil Collection is a small museum in the Museum District of Houston. They're probably most famous for Magritte artwork. It's a nice visit which you can do in 20-30 minutes. Free parking.

Houston Center for Photography: This place is literally a block away from Menil Collection. It's also very small, free, and you can see everything in 15-20 minutes. Worth seeing if you're in the area.
Buffalo Bayou Park/Rain Exhibit at the Cistern: The weather was not great the day we went to Buffalo Bayou Park so I didn't see much of it. However it seems like a great place for a hike, run, or biking activity with miles of trails. We also came here though to see the Rain Exhibit at the Cistern. It's basically an art show with light and thundering rain sound by artist Magdalena Fernandez. It's $10 though and you must rsvp for it. The whole show is 30 minutes and I thought it was cool but I can see people either liking it or hating it. The exhibit closes sometime this spring.

James Turrell's Skyspace: This art installation is on campus at Rice University. It's free and online it says rsvps are required but honestly, you don't need to make them! No one checks, and people on campus can easily wander in and out of the exhibit. The "show" starts right at sundown, although the lights turn on ten minutes before. It's basically a light show (no music or sounds), where the roof of this exhibit changes from deep blues/purples/reds/yellows, etc. It's meant to be meditative I guess, as you gave thru the hole into the sky but it was hard to enjoy with a bunch of rowdy school kids around. So your experience will depend on what you expect and who else is there. There are two areas of seating, benches on the ground floor and benches on the level above. Honestly, I thought the exhibit looked more beautiful on the outskirts. Tip on parking: Rather than pay for visitor parking on campus, just park a couple of blocks outside of the university on the residential streets! It's probably a 15 minute walk (or less) from the residential street to the installation. Just make sure to park near the Shepherd School of Music, or near West Lot 1 (you can google this Google maps!).

Above: The view from inside. Below: The view from outside (which I thought was more interesting!)

Houston Museum of Natural Science: It rained the morning we were leaving Houston and we had four hours to kill before going to the airport. Most museums are closed on Mondays but luckily the Museum of Natural Science was open! There is a parking garage (which is $20 for guests; there is street parking in front if you can find it) and tickets to all the exhibits are sold separately, which worked out for us because we only wanted to see an iMax movie and the Butterfly exhibit. The iMax move we saw was Wild Africa and it was wonderful! I loved it. I love nature films and this one was very well done and in 3-D. The film was shot lusciously and lasts 40 minutes. Admission was $11 and I thought very much worth it compared to other nature films I've seen in other museums (including NY!). The Butterfly exhibit on the other hand was just ok, you can see it all in 20-30 minutes and I was more interested in seeing some of the unique bugs/reptiles they had on showcase. The butterflies were nice to see but there wasn't too many of them or too much variety. Great for kids, but for adults, might be a bit boring unless you've never seen a butterfly before!

Market Square Park: This is an area of downtown Houston where they seem to have a lot of cool bars and restaurants. It's a quick 15 minute walk around the area and is probably where the nightlife is popping. Since I was with my mom, I didn't try any bars but the bar scene did look cool. We had dinner at one of the restaurants around here (La Fisheria) but I thought it wasn't good so I won't comment further on it except it was a waste of a meal for me!! Oh well.

I love how you can grab a drink at the bar below and sit in the outdoor living room couch setting!

Kemah Boardwalk: If you have extra time, or visit the NASA space museum, you can drive out to Kemah Boardwalk after. It's about a 20 minute drive from the Space center (about an hour and change from downtown Houston), and basically this is where people go to eat seafood and go on rides. It's like a mini Coney Island/amusement park. Seemed expensive though but kids would love it. Food is probably overpriced as well but it's right by the water and the ambience is nice. There is free street parking but you have to look for it, and there's also parking lots where you can pay for the day. We got lucky and found free street parking though, just be patient! We just walked around here for 15-20 minutes to have a look since the weather was good but otherwise didn't stay long here.

Chinatown: Being Asian, I'm always curious about other Asian communities outside of NYC. Houston has a big Chinese/Vietnamese community and it was interesting to see it sprawled out over mini shopping plazas. There didn't seem like any place to really 'walk' around like you can in NYC Chinatown, but we did come across Hong Kong City Mall which had a ton of Vietnamese food vendors and a huge Asian supermarket to explore. Long story short though--I'd skip trying to explore Chinatown Houston unless you're really curious. Also, I didn't find the food that compelling (sorry! NYC Chinese/Vietnamese food is way better!)

Brookstreet BBQ: The highlight of all my meals was hands down this DELECTABLE place in the Montrose area of the city. I loved it so much we came back here on our last day before we went to the airport. Everything was very fresh, juicy, and flavorful and you can pick how many meats you want to try (ie 1, 2, or 3 different types of meats) and you get two sides. Most of what we tried was very good. I'm usually not a fan of brisket (find most places make it dry) but this place was soooo juicy. The St. Louis ribs were my fave, and the chicken was good too. Tried the pulled pork which was ok but I'm not a fan of pulled pork in general. The Mexican-styled corn was also yummy as was the bread (I have no idea what kind, but it was buttery) and the potato salad and baked potato casserole was also winners in my book.

Above: Ribs, pulled pork, and chicken. Below: briiiiiisket! Great value meals (never spent more than $35 for two!)

Good Dog Houston: Another good, casual spot to eat by the Menil museum. Can get a nice gourmet hot dog with different types of toppings. Not a place you have to go out of your way for to try, but if you're in this area and hungry, it's worth coming here to get a snack.

So...Is Houston Worth Visiting?

Overall impression: Houston is not terribly exciting, there is some stuff to do and I think it would be a great place for families to visit (lots of things for kids to do) but for an adults-only trip, I think there are better options (ie Chicago, LA, Austin). However, we did enjoy our time in Houston and the art scene was much more vibrant than I expected. I'm used to being able to walk around neighborhoods though and I found that you really need to drive to get around the city, which is sprawling. So yes, Houston is worth visiting if you haven't traveled to many other cities in the U.S., much less outside of the U.S., but if you're a seasoned traveler, you might find Houston a bit boring (and I don't mean that to be insulting, just that it's very family-friendly and not the type a visit a solo traveler or adventurous traveler might find as interesting).

The Downside of Traveling Too Much

February 12, 2017

I have a ton of interests but a lot of it is spurred in my passion for travel. Ever since I was a child growing up in Queens, NY, I longed to visit the glossy waterfalls, majestic mountains, and sparkling cities I used to see in the yearly calendars my parents would hang around the house. My view of the world was limited back then. We never had cable in the house until I went away to college in the late 90s, not to mention barely any access to the Internet (the painful dial up tones and slow connection speeds of AOL still haunt me). So as soon as I could, I took my first international trip at the age of 20, when I went to study abroad in Melbourne, Australia. I took all the money I earned from ages 13-20 (tutoring gigs and part-time admin office work) and bought my roundtrip ticket to the flip side of the world. Since then, I've been hooked on seeing as much as I can and doing as much as I can. I've grown so much in terms of what I thought I knew about life and the world.

Traveling has helped ignite my interest in culture in general, in the art of living life. The art of discovering and appreciating the quality and preparation of food. Traveling has helped carve my sense of perception in people and understanding of relationships. It's helped broaden my love of music and style and inspired me to re-evaluate my own awareness of health and physical capabilities. It's helped me appreciate the value of a dollar (I tend to equate everything in airplane tickets--a designer bag that costs $800?? That's a roundtrip ticket to Europe! Hence I don't really own any fancy designer bags.)

Since I graduated college, I made it my mission to do at least one international trip abroad a year. As time passed and my career progressed, I eventually was able to afford and take more than one trip--I'm happy to say I'm at that point in my life that I can take several trips a year (two long ones and a bunch of shorter ones around the holiday weekends). I know myself now more than I did 15 years ago and I know what I like/don't like/can put up with/don't want to put up with anymore when I travel.

I'm so particular now, I do research all my trips pretty extensively. Which sucks because it is exhausting!!!!!! I am already on the computer all day at work and so the last thing I want to do on my free time is be on the computer. But I've made the sacrifices because I hate wasting time during a vacation (ie standing around, not knowing where to go or what to do) and know that every time I do put in time and effort to research my trips, I thoroughly enjoy them and never regret that I missed out on seeing something or got 'ripped off' because I didn't know about certain situations to expect (ie knowing that sometimes taxis from the airport in some cities don't have meters).

I do miss spontaneous travel though. There was a period in my life where I was unemployed and so I took off to travel for four months and had a fantastic time. I sketched out a rough itinerary and filled in the blanks when I arrived in each city. It was liberating and one of the most memorable traveling experiences of my life. But now that I'm back to being a working professional, I can't afford the luxury of being spontaneous since I need to get back to NYC to corporate reality.

I've also traveled so much that I know what I find interesting vs. boring. I'll be honest--once you see something fantastic like the glaciers in Iceland, the turquoise lakes of South New Zealand, the desert of Western Australia, the powder beaches of Turks and Caicos, or the thunderous falls in Iguazu, Argentina you do get pickier of "amazing must see's." After a while, it's harder to be "wow'ed" and some things start to look the same or you end up comparing places to one another. In my 20s, I loved visiting every freaking church and museum in Europe and now I have very little interest since they all kind of seem the same to me! There are some exceptions of course but in general I do feel that the more I travel the more I need to be selective of where I go and what I do so I don't taint my perception of places.

I guess I am sharing this to explain why I write my trip experiences on this blog. This blog is for other people who can relate to me--those who also love to maximize their time when traveling but have limited time to plan things. And for people who are similar to me, who have traveled a lot, and really want to know if a place is worth visiting if they have similar tastes to me. Whenever I do trip research, I always type into Google if "Is xxx worth visiting?" and of course there are many different opinions of what you'll get back. For example, I remember when I was in Colombia, I was trying to find a great restaurant to eat at. Being from NYC, I have a ton of access to amazing food here. I came across a highly recommended restaurant with glowing reviews so I went to try it. And it was one of the worst meals I've had on a trip!! It was bland and to make it worst, expensive (ok, expensive for Colombia standards). When I went back to read the reviews, I realized the people who wrote them were from places that probably do not have access to NYC quality level food (most were from other nearby South American countries). I know this comes off as snobbish but I just realized more now at this point in my life than I did before that reviews and opinions are completely subjective and I wish I could find a travel resource that has similar tastes/expectations as me! I haven't come across one yet so I decided to share my travel experiences from a New Yorker point of view.

The biggest downside of traveling too much for me though is that I feel like I'm running out of places to go! Places that are an easy, quick trip from NYC at least. There are still some places I think I can manage a 3-5 day trip to, but I worry that at some point I will run out of short weekend getaway ideas. For long trips, the world is still my oyster but I can only manage to do two long trips (meaning a week or more) a year.

So far this is the list I've all the places I've been to, post my study abroad trip to Australia in 2000 (with a side trip to Malaysia, Singapore, and Los Angeles, CA before heading back home). There are a few places I've been to more than once and there are reasons for that! Each time was a very different experience but in general I try not to re-visit the same place twice (my heart will always have a place for Turks & Caicos though!). Always open to suggestions on what to add on my trip list! Croatia, South Africa, Patagonia, Ireland, Israel, Jordan and Norway are on my wish list but unfortunately I'm not making it to any of these places yet this year. Stay tuned for more adventures...

Sept 2001 - Miami, FL
Nov 2001 - Bahamas
May 2002 - Italy (Venice, Florence, Pisa, Rome, Capri, and Pompeii)
January 2003 - Carnival Cruise in the Carribbean (St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, and Bahamas again)
June 2003 - San Francisco, CA
September 2003 - Spain (Barcelona, San Sebastian, Madrid, & Ibiza)
June 2004 - Puerto, Plata, Dominican Republic
October 2004 - France (Paris and Nice) and London
January 2005 - Los Angeles, CA
April 2005 - Cancun, Mexico
October 2005 - Grand Canyon and Las Vegas
November 2005 - Thailand
June 2006 - Turks & Caicos
September 2006 - Paris again
December 2006 - Hawaii (Maui & Kauai) and Las Vegas
June 2007 - Yellowstone National Park
July 2007 - Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
December 2007 - St. Lucia
February 2008 - Orange County, CA
December 2008 - Disney World, Florida
February 2009 - Fiji (Mana Island)
March 2009 - New Zealand (North & South Island)
April 2009 - Melbourne, the Great Barrier Reef, & Sydney, Australia
May 2009 - Beijing, Xian, Guilin, Suzhou, Shanghai, China & Hong Kong
July 2009 - Bar Harbor, Maine
September 2009 - Vancouver, Canada
January 2010 - Atlanta, Georgia
May 2010 - Aruba
July 2010 - Montreal, Canada
July 2010 - Miami, FL
September 2010 - Chicago, IL
December 2010 - Dallas. TX
February 2011 - New Orleans, Louisiana
June 2011 - Iceland (Reykjavik and the Westfjords)
March 2012 - Central Europe (Berlin, Prague, Vienna, Salzburg, and Budapest)
May 2012 - Playa del Carmen, Mexico
June 2012 - Alaska (Cruise to Juneau, Skagway, Anchorage, and Denali National Park)
December 2012 - Disney World, Orlando, FL
March 2013 - Fort Lauderdale, FL
April 2013 - Lisbon, Cascais, and Porto, Portugal
November 2013 - Cancun, Mexico
December 2013 - Maui, Big Island, and Oahu, Hawaii
May 2014 - Munich & Frankfurt, Germany; Zurich & Lucerne, Switzerland; Lake Como, Italy
July 2014 - Quebec, Canada
September 2014 - Cayman Islands
November 2014 - Iguazu Falls, Bariloche, and Buenos Aires, Argentina
April 2015 - Turks and Caicos
May 2015 - Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Hakone, Mt. Fuji, and Tokyo, Japan
September 2015 - Amsterdam, the Netherlands
January 2016 - Ft. Lauderdale, FL
February 2016 - Playa Del Carmen, Mexico
March 2016 - Cartagena, Colombia
April 2016 - Orlando, FL
May 2016 - Copenhagen, Denmark
June 2016 - Nova Scotia (Cape Breton and Halifax area)
September 2016 -Greece (Athens, Rhodes, Crete, and Santorini)
January 2017 - Los Angeles, CA

Los Angeles 2016/2017 Trip Report Part V (Spas)

January 17, 2017

I love spas. There's nothing better than the feeling of being pampered and I'm always on the lookout for great spa deals/places. Knowing that L.A. has a big spa culture, I looked up a bunch to see which one to try and I settled on two: Wi Spa, a Korean spa in downtown L.A., and the Four Seasons Spa in Westlake (about 30-40 minutes from downtown).

Wi Spa

Wi Spa is a 24-hour spa in downtown L.A., in the K-town section. I came here on New Years Eve, and was a bit nervous that it would be packed with people but it actually wasn't bad at all! Or maybe I am used to worst crowds in NYC, but by nighttime, the place thinned out.

Admission to the spa (which has free valet parking) is $25 and provides you access to saunas, the rooftop lounge area, and the gender-specific hot tubs (no clothes in this area only). If you get a facial/massage/etc., the admission price is included in the service. Since I came on NYE, I decided to go for the Buff & Seaweed treatment, which includes a body scrub, oil massage, seaweed body wrap, facial mask, and shampoo treatment for a glorious 110 minutes. I made the rsvp a week in advance for 8 pm, so I arrived at 4 pm to enjoy the other amenities.

I found Wi Spa to be very clean but not as big as the Korean spas in NYC. There are 4 hot saunas set at different heated temperatures and one ice room. You can also order food there but I didn't try any of it since I had a big lunch earlier. Compared to Spa Castle in Queens, NY, Spa Castle is more 'fun' in that it has more saunas in addition to co-ed jacuzzis on the rooftop (as well as gender-specific hot tubs). The body treatment was pretty good, my skin was baby soft after. Great place to relax and unwind if needed but coming on a weekday is probably better. While the place wasn't that packed as I thought it would be, there were definitely way more kids/teens that I care to be around when I want peace and quiet! My fave sauna rooms was the Salt Room (picture above, where you literally lie in salt!) and the Clay Room (where you lie in tiny balls of clay!).

Four Seasons Westlake Village Spa

When I was researching L.A. spas, the Four Seasons Westlake Village Spa popped up on many lists. I am so glad I checked this one out as the amenities and service here are great! On weekdays, they have specials so come then if you can. I did the Unity Daycation package, which is a 50 minute facial and a 50 minute massage for $290. I thought it was a good deal considering the amenities of a swimming pool, hot tubs, sauna, steam room, and access to the fitness classes (though I didn't get to take any classes). My treatments started at 5 pm but I came around 1 pm and wish I came earlier to enjoy! They also have a nice sleeping/relaxation room too.

This Four Seasons Spa is also the largest in the world, with 28 treatment rooms. Thus the amenities are also one of the nicest of all the hotels. There are three hot tubs, two of which are outside and one inside.

Even though it was 50 degrees out, the plush robes kept me warm, as did the outdoor hot tub. The service staff is really great here too, greeting you with a smile and providing anything you need. I stayed outside for about 1.5 hours, reading by the pool and enjoying the hot tub.

Lying on these nice beds while listening to water trickling in the spa was lovely too. This was a perfect place to recover after my hiking activities!

I really enjoyed my time here. If I do come back out to L.A. I would probably check out a different spa just to see what else is out there but this one was super nice to enjoy and may be hard to beat!

Los Angeles 2016/2017 Trip Report Part IV (Food)

January 11, 2017

The one downside to solo travel is there's only so much you can eat on your own! I generally love to try as many things as possible but that's hard when you have no one to share plates with. I came armed with a list of places to try but only got to hit up 3 spots! Below are some of the places I checked out that I really liked.

Bardonna

On my first full day in L.A., I took a yoga class in Santa Monica and was starving after the 90 minute session was over. I was on Montana Avenue and needed to eat ASAP so I went across the street to Bardonna. There was a line out the door which is always a good sign. Very California-styled cafe, with indoor and outdoor seating. I ordered a healthy breakfast, poached eggs on avocado with toast and a side salad and some lavender tea. It was a great place to read a book, people watch, and just enjoy the scene.

Gjelina Take Away (GTA)

When I was researching where to eat in L.A., Gjelina kept coming up on many must-eat lists. It came up whenever I asked people who have lived in L.A. for foodie recs. So I came here after my long day of hiking the Hollywood Sign, it was one of the few places that was open New Years Day. Well, actually Gjelina was closed but next door is Gjelina Take Away and they are open all day long!

Being a New York native, I am quite picky about my pizza so I had to try theirs. They have a bunch of different options but I went for the classic--pomodoro with burrata cheese. Now it's quite possible that I was soooo hungry that even Dominoes pizza at that point in the day would've been a 5-star meal to me. But the perfect combo of red sauce and soft cheese exploded in my mouth and every bite was delicious. If you're anywhere near here (Venice Beach/Santa Monica), I would highly recommend it but I wouldn't say go out of your way to come here. The other offerings were sandwiches and salads. I got a sandwich to go when I left for the airport, it was good but not mind blowing (but definitely probably a lot better than anything you would get at the airport). The place sits on the famous Abbot Kinney Blvd. so you can come stroll the street of boutiques and then grab something to go here.

Sqirl

Sqirl was another place that came with glowing praises on the web. I'm very thankful I got to try it (I initially tried to go on New Years Day but it was closed). It's located in the Silver Lake area, closer to Runyon Canyon or Griffith Observatory. I wasn't able to find street parking but I did find free residential street parking around the corner. I wish I had more time to try other dishes here, everything looked so good! My breakfast above was fantastic, it's one of their specials called the Cauliflower Hash. Tons of flavor and very fresh veggies (cauliflower and potatoes) with a fried egg on top. I really wish there was a location here in NY. I got here on a Monday morning at 9 am and there was not much of a line but by 9:30 am the line was down the block! It's a very casual place, you order and then seat yourself (and they bring the food out to you).

sugarfish

sugarfish is an L.A. chain that recently opened in NYC. I've been to the one in NYC 3x already but had to try the original! The real original is in Marina del Rey but I went to the one nearby in Santa Monica. It's very affordable high quality sushi. The L.A. menu was the same as NYC but much cheaper (the cost of rent, I suppose!) There's 3 different omakase-style sets to choose from. If you love sushi definitely come to one of these in L.A. or NYC. The best is the Albacore belly sushi (it's a side order though, not part of the omakase set). In L.A., the most expensive sushi set is $37 and it's $51 in NYC (includes tax and tip).

Eggslut

I actually texted a friend that we should consider getting in on the Eggslut franchise! This place only serves egg-type breakfast dishes and it is sooo delectable. I really love eating eggs. The order above is called the slut. It's a poached egg in a glass jar on top of pureed potatoes with toast and a side order of bacon and fresh OJ. I went to the location in Venice. It's super casual (metered parking nearby and close to the beach) with small area of seating (no bathrooms). You're basically in and out in 20 minutes.

I came back on my last morning in L.A. and also tried the bacon, egg and cheese sandwich on brioche and it was so good too. Basically you probably can't go wrong at this place.

Malibu Seafood Fish Market

I love seafood and wish I could've ordered more from this menu at Malibu Seafood Fish Market but I wasn't that hungry at the time. Right off the Pacific Coast Highway, this place has very fresh seafood where you can eat on a patio overlooking the ocean or buy to bring home and cook or eat. I got the special, dungeness crab meat on salad with a clam chowder soup. Wanted to get a pound of mussels too but didn't have room for it. I didn't think the meat would taste as good when I saw how it was plated but it was very flavorful and filling. Definitely recommend if you're in the Malibu area.

Other Places

Other places I wanted to try but didn't get to (but came highly recommended to me) were:

Bestia: Italian, need rsvps in advance (I tried to make one last minute and it was all full for days!), in downtown LA
Sushi Gen: Sushi, downtown LA
Silver Lake Ramen: Ramen noodles, Silver Lake area
Santa Monica Seafood Market: seafood in Santa Monica area
Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong: Korean BBQ place, there is one in NYC as well but the LA one is supposed to be better

Los Angeles 2016/2017 Trip Report Part III (Other Hikes)

January 9, 2017

Runyon Canyon

When I planned my trip to L.A., I was most excited about Runyon Canyon. Always talked about by celebrities and mentioned in magazines, I was so curious to check it out. Compared to the Hollywood hike, I was kind of disappointed. This was my best picture on the hike because otherwise I found the scenery not to be as interesting (since I did this two days after the Hollywood one). However, I would say it's still worth checking out and getting a good workout in.

After being scarred by the amount of people at Griffith Park, I resolved to get here as early as possible which paid off! I came here on a Tuesday morning, arriving around 7:15 am. I had read that there is a small parking lot (fits about 20 cars) at the intersection of Mulholland Drive and Pyramid Place so that is where I came and I easily pulled into an empty parking spot. By the time I left at 8:30 am, there was quite a line of cars waiting for a spot in the lot. There is street parking available too (somewhere below this area) but I didn't want to worry about figuring out the street signs/rules.

If you start from this parking lot, you should allot about an hour or less to do the loop from the top. Also, there are NO bathroom facilities here so take care of business before coming! When you park, you'll walk over to the entrance to the park and see two entrances--the left one goes into the park and will bring you to a mid-level area of trails overlooking L.A. The right one (which is a steep trail) goes all the way to the top and probably is the best views of the city from this park. I would recommend starting from the left side.

I didn't take as many pics (since the views were not as nice) but as you walk into the park from the left entrance, you will walk around the canyon (stay to the right up the trail path) and come upon a big house. It's like the only huge mansion in the area so you'll know. Anyway, next to/behind the house are stairs/trails to an overlook. You will have to walk down the trails/steps to get to the overlook. I initially thought this was highest point of the canyon but it is not! I also thought that if I passed by the house, I would be come back to the other side to the trail that leads back to the lot on the right side but it does not! If you pass this house, you'll just end up on a residential street. Anyway, I took the trail/steps down towards the overlook but didn't make it all the way to the overlook. I just wasn't as interested. On the way back to the lot from the direction I came, I saw another trail go up the canyon and realized that must be the trail into the loop at the very top and it was. It's very steep but this trail leads you up to the view in the pic above. I liked the trail/overlook up here much better than at the mid-level range. I only stayed briefly and then figured out the path that takes you back to the lot, where the entrance starts on the right side. All in all I spent exactly an hour at Runyon Canyon but compared to the Hollywood Hike, I wasn't as impressed but was glad to get another workout in.

Culver City Steps/Baldwin Scenic Overlook

The other park I liked better than Runyon Canyon was the Culver City Steps! Another name for this area is the Baldwin Scenic Overlook. I think I liked this one a lot because climbing up the stairs (282!) was challenging, and the people here were soooo into fitness! I honestly thought I was pretty fit/active until I came to L.A. Here at the steps, people were trekking it up/down multiple times. In addition, once they got to top platform/overlook, they were doing more exercises, like crunches, squats, etc.! Various people! I also saw a few people jogging up and down the hill multiple times as well. If you decide not to climb the steps, you can also take the slopey trails.

I am only 5'2" and there were some parts of the stairs that, if I was any shorter, I don't know how I would've gotten up! It only took me 15 minutes to get to the top but I definitely needed to stop, pant, and breathe a few times.

The view at the top was nicer than Runyon Canyon, in my opinion. But I just also loved the energy of all the people here. I forgot to mention that I came here on a Wednesday morning around 7:30 am and there was plenty of (free) street parking near the entrance on Hetzler Road (when I went, the road to the lot was closed for construction). The signs say you can park max two hours and you will probably spend an hour here.

After a bit of people watching, I took the trail back down to the street level and just enjoyed the views along the way. My legs were very sore but another good workout to get in!

Zuma Beach

The last thing I'll mention in this post is Zuma Beach. I didn't do any hiking here but it was a nice place to kill time in Malibu. It's a popular beach and when I pulled into the area, I parked at the parking meters (to the left when you enter) since I was staying for a short time. Otherwise it's $6 to park in the lot.I love that in LA all the parking meters take credit card! Very convenient. It was like $1 for an hour or something.

Anyway, I took a stroll on the beach and just enjoyed the serenity of it all since no one else was around on a Tuesday morning. I can imagine in the summer it must be packed and even more gorgeous!

So right before I left, I took one last look at the ocean and I could not believe my eyes. A huge whale head popped out of the water right near the shoreline! I was stunned! Then I saw a few dolphins pop up too! It was so cool. I hung out a few more minutes to watch the animals swim along. I couldn't get any pics but it was so cool. I had read that this is a good place to spot whales/dolphins in Dec-Jan. but I really did not expect to see anything! So, I really recommend checking this spot out since you never know what you might come across! I was here for just 45 minutes (10:15-11 am).