June/July 2019 Trip Report: Day 6-8 Jasper National Park (Alberta, Canada)

November 3, 2019

BANFF VS. JASPER

So, you’re planning a trip to Banff. Should you make it up to Jasper, too? I think an extra day or so to visit Jasper is worth it. We were there for 3 full days, and drove back from Jasper to Calgary on the 4th day. It rained most of the time we were in Jasper, so we spent one day really just hanging out and enjoying the expensive but beautiful log cabin we rented.

Jasper is further north of Banff (about a 4 hour drive from Calgary, 2-3 hours from Banff depending on if you stop along the way or drive straight through). Compared to Banff, Jasper is much more rugged and wild. We spotted animals every day (bears, elk, moose) and the town is more community-like and spread out, rather than touristy, concentrated, and compact the way Banff is. In terms of highlights, I like Banff much more in terms of things to see and the gorgeous lakes and landscape. Jasper was pretty as well, but different. And because of the weather and plethora of more rugged trails, we didn’t do as much. I thought Banff had more concentration of accessible beauty compared to Jasper.

In my opinion, the main thing to see in Jasper was going up the Jasper Gondola to hike up to the summit above the clouds and going down to Maligne Lake. Apparently, there are bears that love to walk around the road that leads you into Maligne Lake! So if you have an extra day or two, it’s worth stopping by Jasper.

JASPER SKYTRAM

Jasper Skytram is so worth going on! On the morning we went, it was really overcast and cloudy so I was doubtful we would enjoy it at all. When we arrived very early in the morning to get on the gondola (around 8:15 am), the operator said we didn’t have to worry because it was clear at the top above the clouds. If you plan to do this, come as early as you can in the morning! By the time we left/went back down around 12:15 pm, the line to go up was packed. But another plus of coming early when it opens at 8 am is that you get free breakfast included at the restaurant at the top! Free breakfast is served before 10 am.

Toasty hot chocolate for breakfast with a glorious view.

Breakfast was actually quite good and it came with a complimentary drink as well and glorious views. After finishing breakfast, we started the hike to the summit at 9:30 am and didn’t reach the top until 11 am. The path was pretty steep and the altitude is high so you’ll want to take your time. It’s not impossible to do at all, but not easy either. And there are multiple paths you can take to the top to see different viewpoints and overlooks.

I really loved hiking up this summit. It took us about 30 minutes to get back down and as I said earlier, the mountain got much busier as the morning drifted away.

MALIGNE LAKE

After a quick lunch in town, we left at 1:30 pm to catch the “premium” Maligne Lake Cruise. There are two cruise choices, one regular, and one premium. The premium basically allows you to walk onto Spirit Island for about 30 minutes, which is more than enough as the area you’re around to walk on is very small and short! You’re only allowed to walk within the outskirts of the island, in one direction. This is a constructed path to protect the island respect the natives who worship its history. This lake cruise was much better than the one we did in Banff (Minnewaska), but also skippable as well if you’re short on time.

You will definitely see bears driving back and forth from Maligne Lake! We drove on this road multiple times and we always saw a bear or two (from the safety of the car, please don’t get out like we saw multiple dumb people do!) over the course of three days.

MALIGNE CANYON

Another thing to do in Jasper is go for a walk/hike along Maligne Canyon. This was nice to see and something to do but not a must do. Twenty minutes was enough to see views of the canyon from the first and second bridges. I think there are like 6 bridges but I read somewhere that the best views were from the first two. So if you’re short on time, just do that, but if you have more time, you can do all of it. The first bridge starts by the restaurant near the parking lot and then it loops to the second bridge.

Misc. Jasper Notes

Pyramid Lake is skippable. If you have time, you can drive and have a look but compared to all the other amazing lakes in Banff, Pyramid was just ok!
Valley of the the Five Lakes was also skippable. It’s rugged trails and again, compared to other things to see/do in Banff, wasn’t as interesting to us. I hiked for about 30-45 minutes and never even made it to see a lake because of the rain, muddy trails, and generally didn’t look as interesting as to the other scenery we saw earlier in the trip.
Medicine Lake is an easy viewpoint to stop and take pictures at, but also skippable compared to Lake Louise or Moraine Lake

Overall, although we didn’t do much in Jasper as we did in Banff, it was nice to kick back, relax, and just chill in the cabin most of the time and cook. Since all the other days were so jam packed with sight seeing, it was nice to slow down and just do whatever we wanted and not rush around as much to beat the crowds. We also saw way more animals in the wild in Jasper than in Banff which was cool. The weather when we were there at the end of June/beginning of July was on the chillier side (like ranging from 40s to 60s in Fahrenheit) but I heard the year before it was much warmer, and I think two weeks after we left, it was really hot and there were wildfires! I’m glad it was chilly though because we hardly had any bugs/mosquitoes (heard that they’re humongous in Lake Louise). I did see a few monster mosquitoes but definitely not as many had it been warmer.

A visit to both parks is worth all the planning though! I feel very spoiled after visiting the beauty of Banff, Jasper, and Patagonia (in South America) over the past 12 months, I am not sure if I’ll ever find any other parks as appealing for a long while (especially those close to where I live in NYC!). I do want to go to Yosemite and Zion National Parks someday and open to suggestions and comments to any other places I should check out in the future! :)

June/July 2019 Trip Report: Day 5 of Banff National Park (Alberta, Canada)

October 30, 2019

The morning of Day 5 of our trip was spent on the last segment of our Ultimate Explorer Banff tour. We booked an 11 am tour for the Columbia Icefield Adventure & Skywalk visit, but arrived to the parking lot by 10:20 am. It’s about a 2 hour drive from Lake Louise.

If you have never seen a glacier before, this is worth doing. If you have, you could probably skip it though! The Skywalk is part of the tour as well, and you do this after visiting the glacier. The cool part of the tour is riding the big icefield trucks out to the glaciers—there are like 12 in the world and 9 of them are on this tour while the others are used around the world for scientific reasons. The entire tour lasts about 2.5 hours. The walk on the glacier itself is about 30 min. long (which is more than enough as the space for walking isn’t that big).

For the Skywalk part, you can stay as long as you’d like and then take one of the many buses that circle around back. We finished the tour close to 1:30 pm and had lunch there at the Visitor Center since there is nothing else around but the food was decent (but pricey). The Skywalk was ok, I thought it would be more exciting since the floor is see-through glass but it’s also really thick and not as scary as you think since you can see your reflection and things like that, obscuring the true view.

As we were driving up to Jasper National Park, we stopped along a couple of other stops along the way but the weather was crappy (rainy) so we didn’t stay very long.

After leaving the Columbia Icefield Visitors Center at 2:30 pm we went to Sunwapta Falls, arriving at about 3:20 pm. It wasn’t that impressive as the others so this is skippable unless you want to kill some time!

Then we headed to Athabaska Falls, arriving at 3:45 pm but due to the rain, we didn’t stay long here either and left to check into the cutest log cabin in all the land, Alpine Village Jasper. We stayed in the Whistler One Bedroom Cabin, and it was expensive but SO worth it! Built in 2018, these cabins still felt so spanking new and was so cozy and comfortable to stay in. I loved it and would definitely stay here again! It had a full kitchen and it was nice to cook our own meals and have a cup of tea out on the patio. The entire area reminds me of being in a Disney fairy tale village. It’s about a ten minute drive into Jasper but it was so lovely to stay here out in nature with modern amenities. I’m also glad we stayed here because for the most part, it was raining most of our time in Jasper so to have a nice place to chill and relax indoors was quite nice. This place also has an outdoor hot tub (by reception) but we didn’t use it.

June/July 2019 Trip Report: Day 4 of Banff National Park (Alberta, Canada)

October 27, 2019

Day 4: Moraine Lake

This was probably my favorite day of the trip. I was so tired from the past few days that I almost skipped out on getting up 4:45 am for the sunrise at Moraine Lake and I’m SO glad I didn’t. It was absolutely breathtaking!

We left Mountaineer Lodge by 5:15 am and drove over into the parking lot, arriving by 5:40 am. I thought we would be the earliest of early birds but oh how wrong I was! We got one of the very last parking spots and by the time we left at 7 am, the parking lot was definitely closed. My suggestion to come at the this time of the year (end of June) is probably shoot for between 5 and 5:30 am arrival.

With renewed energy, I found the path to the overlook above the lake, which I didn’t trek up the evening before. It’s easy to find and it’s not a hard path. It’s a basically a short trail and staircases and probably takes about ten minutes to get to the top of the overlook from the parking lot. There are numerous spots on the hill to get amazing views. My favorite spot was a quiet one off to the left when you arrive up the hill from the staircase, as most people rush up to the top/middle of the hill. I stayed at the overlook for about an hour, watching in awe at the majestic reflection of the mountains in the still lake. There were a few people paddling out on the lake in canoes as well. It was beautiful to see the light, shadows, and sky change as the sun lit up.

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

Yoho National Park is very close to Lake Louise and an easy day trip. By car, it’s about 20 minutes away. After having breakfast, we left the hotel at 9:30 am and made a brief stop at the Spiral Tunnels. This place was skippable, unless you’re really into trains. We stayed here for like 5-10 minutes, and unless a train is pulling in, I am not sure it’s worth it. It’s famous because the engineers had to be creative back in the day with getting trains up and down steep hills.

We then drove onto one of the highlights of the park, Emerald Lake. It was sooo crowded when we arrived; I wish we came a bit earlier! We ended up parking down the road away from the parking lot, which was full. Emerald Lake is very pretty but not as magnificent as Lake Louise or Moraine. However, it is more relaxed here and you can go for an easy walk around the lake.

Another lake you can see in Yoho National Park is Lake O’Hara. You need to make online reservations in advance (like WEEKS in advance) and I hadn’t done it so we didn’t go. I think after a while though, all the lakes start to look the same but I think the best ones were Moraine, Lake Louise, and Peyto.

We headed over to Takakkaw Falls and got there by 12:30 pm. Parking was crowded but larger and we were able to get a spot. It’s the highest falls in the park and very nice to visit. You can hike up pretty close to the falls (we didn’t do this). I think by this point we were feeling tired from the jam packed past few days! We then headed back to the hotel to rest a bit.

Later in the afternoon, around 4 pm, we headed back out to Lake Louise again to have a walk around the perimeter of the lake and just to relax and take the scene in. From the hotel out to the other side of the lake and back, it’s about a two mile roundtrip walk.

From the other side of Lake Louise, looking out at the Fairmount Hotel

Given the lack of dining options in the area, we ended up back at Peyto Cafe for dinner again and called it an evening!

June/July 2019 Trip Report: Day 3 of Banff National Park (Alberta, Canada)

October 25, 2019

LAKE LOUISE

Lake Louise is a highlight of Banff National Park. We planned to spend two nights at Lake Louise, which I highly recommend so that you can see everything you want in this area (Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, nearby Yoho National Park). We left Banff downtown at 8 am and an hour later, arrived and there was already traffic getting to the lake! It is no joke to come here ASAP in order to get prime parking. Otherwise, you need to park further away and shuttle over. We were lucky and were able to park in a lot close to the Fairmont Lake Louise hotel.

As a quick summary, this was what we did on Day 3 of the trip at Lake Louise:

Hike to Fairmont Lookout
Perimeter walk around Lake Louise by the hotel (FYI the hotel seemed more strict than the one in Banff in terms of access; the public can use it if they plan to shop/eat there though)
Attempted to visit Bow Glacier Falls
Visited Peyto Lake
Visited Mistaya Canyon

Day 3

We did the hike up to the Fairmont Lookout. It was a bit steep, but not terrible. Definitely knew there were animals in the area due to ‘evidence’ on the trails (meaning animal droppings, lol) but it felt safe. It’s about a mile and change one way up. When the trail flattens out and dips down a bit, you know you’re near the end of the hike and you’ll see a platform which allows you to see the lake in all its turquoise blue glory with the hotel in the back. The platform has a bench and a snack is recommended if you don’t have time for breakfast in the morning! It took us about 45 minutes to get to the top, starting at 9:45 am and we were back down by 11 am.

I also had the Lake Agnes Teahouse on my list as a possible trail to do but we ended up skipping it due to our later morning start (seriously, need to get here at like 6 am if you want to do this in peace without the hordes of tourists!). They actually ended up closing it that day too due to a nearby bear sighting! I’ve heard the teahouse hike is also long and steep so didn’t mind skipping it.

From 11 am - noon, we walked around the perimeter of Lake Louise which was gorgeous. It’s still so incredible to me that there are SO many people who come here to photograph it, yet it’s still possible to take a picture as if there is no one else here (definitely was not the case!).

For lunch, we had amazing sandwiches from this casual take out place at the nearby shopping center called Trailhead Cafe. The food was fresh, big portions, and so good we came back the next day to eat again!

The downtown area of Lake Louise is very small and you should definitely book a hotel way in advance as soon as you know you want to come here! I was very lucky to find room at Mountaineer Lodge back in January when I was looking. Initially almost all moderately priced rooms were sold out, but the lodge just renovated and released rooms back when I booked it. It’s going to be expensive in Banff/Jasper no matter what and I TOTALLY think it’s worth spending the money staying in the areas you want to stay in to limit all the driving back and forth. I’m so glad we stayed here due to it’s super close proximity to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, both of which are overloaded with tourists. Anyway, Mountaineer Lodge was great, very stylish and comfortable and they also have an indoor hot tub. Actually all the places we stayed at had a hot tub but we never had a chance to use them! They also include free breakfast, which was great. Another word of advice though: do your supermarket shopping in Banff before coming to Lake Louise! Their supermarket options were more expensive and tiny compared to Banff’s.

Another tip: If you need to use the restroom but can’t find a good public one, just head over to Lake Louise Gondola. This is a ski resort with another chairlift to the top of the mountain. It’s less than a 10 minute drive from downtown Lake Louise. We contemplated taking the gondola up, but the weather was cloudy and you can see the sky cam from the top broadcasted next to the ticket desk to determine if you feel like it’s worth going to or not. To us, it wasn’t so we skipped it and headed over to Bow Glacier Falls.

Bow Lake

So we never really made it to Bow Glacier Falls. I wanted to, but it’s considered bear territory and it wasn’t swarming with tourists like other trails were so didn’t feel comfortable going without any defense. However, the lake around here was GORGEOUS and reminded me very much of the mountains and lakes I saw in Patagonia! It’s great to just walk around the perimeter towards the Bow Glacier Falls trail. There is a path and you can walk as far as you want. It was also very windy here though on the day we came. We arrived here at 1:45 pm and left about an hour later.

PEYTO LAKE

Peyto Lake is about 15 minutes drive north of Bow Lake and SOOO worth pulling over to see! Not much of a hike here, you go straight to the platforms overlooking this beautiful cyan blue lake. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a purely bright hued lake like this before.

MISTAYA CANYON

After the brief stop at Peyto, we then drove 30 min. north to Mistaya Canyon. The hike down to the canyon is less than a mile roundtrip and an easy walk but a semi-rocky trail. Canyon was cool to see but skippable if you don’t have the time for it. Also the fact I’m too lazy to find a picture of it to upload reminds me it was skippable, lol.

MORAINE LAKE - In the evening

By the time we returned back to the hotel and took a bit of a break, it was almost 6 pm. We decided to try our luck to get into Moraine Lake since traffic seemed to have lightened up. From Mountaineer Lodge, Moraine Lake was actually a bit closer to drive to than Lake Louise. We arrived at 6:30 pm to the parking lot and waited about 10 minutes before being able to park. But we were lucky! Pretty sure everyone after us had the same idea to come later in the day and the line to get into the park (by the time we left at 7 pm) was longer than when we came in. The problem though is that the parking lot is one way and circular, and people can’t see there are spots on the other side unless they risk going down that one way route and around towards the exit.

Anyway, getting a glimpse of Moraine Lake was pretty, but I didn’t get the hype. Why did everyone rave about this place? When we entered, I saw a ton of people to the left on a pile of rocks on a hill, but by then we were SO tired and I didn’t want to do another hike to see the lake from above. Also, in order to get up to the left side, it looked like you had to take this long path up and around. So we kept to the right side of the lake, which was also nice. I learned my lesson the next day though when I came back to see it at sunrise!

For dinner, we went to Peyto Cafe. The food was decent, just had burgers and fish and chips. We ate here twice as well since otherwise dining options were a bit limited in Lake Louise! It’s located inside a hostel but the service and ambience was very nice and laid back. Would recommend for an easy, relaxing dinner.

June/July 2019 Trip Report: Day 2 of Banff National Park (Alberta, Canada)

October 20, 2019

I realize I am super behind in writing about my Banff/Jasper trip! After my last post, the WiFi service was really spotty and the summer flew by in a snap. Was too busy living it then sit at home and write content! Good thing I kept meticulous notes on my iPhone during the trip though :)

DAY 2: Banff

The schedule on this day, which I mapped out in advance and we kept for the most part, was as follows:

Morning, 6-9 am : Visit Johnson Canyon
9-10 am: Drive back to Banff town and grab quick breakfast
10-10:45 am: Drive to Sunshine Village to take the gondola up
11:30 am - 1 pm: Hike at the top around Sunshine Meadows
3-4 pm: Returned to Banff, grab lunch and rest at hotel.
4 pm: Leave to drive to Lake Minnewasaka
5-6 pm: Lake Cruise
6-7 pm: Drive over to Tunnel Mt. just to have a look
7-8 pm: Check out Fairmont Banff but also end up at Bow Falls
After 8 pm: Dinner and sleep

So we crammed A LOT in on the second day, see below for notes and observations.

Johnson Canyon

Our second day in Banff started off with waking up before the crack of dawn to beat the crowd at Johnson Canyon. Very happy we made this effort as by the time we left, we noticed a plethora of more people and it wouldn’t have been as relaxing or nice since the pathways are a bit narrow.

We left the hotel (Mount Royal) at 6 am to get to the canyon, which was about 45 minutes away from town. Upon arrival, there was plenty of parking but was completely full by the time we returned to the lot at 9 am. There are clean bathroom facilities here next to the parking lot. As you can see from the map below, it should take about 30 minutes to walk to the Lower Falls and from there, another hour to the Upper Halls.

The trail is easy to follow. Most of the walk to the Lower Falls will be right along the canyon on these ramps. It’s pretty scenic, cool, and a bit misty down here. The walkway is a bit narrow (can fit two people comfortably side by side but probably not much more than that) which is why starting the trail early with the mass amounts of tourists is well worth it.

We made the (not fatal) mistake of bypassing stopping at the Lower Falls first and went straight to the Upper Falls. The walk to the Upper Falls is longer and more inland, not along the canyon. The path isn’t too difficult, but it is longer and has more ups/downs than the Lower Falls trail. Once you get near the end path to the bottom of the Upper Falls, you can take another path upwards to the top for an overlook of the Upper Falls. We skipped that portion since we were tired and had a busy itinerary for the day. If you plan to go further up, plan for another 30-45 minutes.

Upper Falls was very nice to see though. You get to stand on a platform above the river rushing below down to Lower Falls. When we reached here it was still pretty empty but on the walk back down to Lower Falls, we started to see more and more people coming up the route. By the time we reached Lower Falls, I really regretted not stopping there first!

The view of watching the water rush down from Upper Falls downstream

Lower Falls - you can get more up and personal to it via a small hole in a cave.

When we reached Lower Falls, there were more people arriving. I had failed to notice that you can get up and close to the Lower Falls via a small tunnel in a cave, which holds about maybe 4-5 people at a time on a small standing area. It wasn’t terribly crowded, but compared to the fact that there was NO ONE here when we first arrived, I regretted not stopping to see this first and breezing on by on the way back. If it’s super crowded and you’re unable to get into the cave, it’s not the end of the world. The view is not going to be that much better or anything, but knowing that we could have seen it crowd-free earlier pained me, lol. By the time we returned to the parking lot, it was about 9 am. We were starving and decided to head back into town for a quick breakfast at McDonald’s before shooting back out to Sunshine Village.

OVERALL: Johnson Canyon is worth seeing, it’s an easy/medium level hike and enjoyable for all. Definitely try to start this as early as you can in the day, and bring a snack/water.

SUNSHINE VILLAGE

Next up in the jam packed day was a visit up to Sunshine Village. The weather forecast for Banff the time we were here at the end of June was mostly rainy. Sunshine Village is a ski resort about 20 minutes from Banff, but the attractions all sit at the very top of Sunshine Mt. We booked our gondola tickets in advance and I am very glad that we planned to come during the start of peak season as otherwise, the gondola/access up here is closed. So the day we went was the very first day of gondola operation (the last Friday in June).

As we drove from Banff to Sunshine, the rain and mist did NOT let up. I was very sad since the prior day we could not see anything at the top of the gondola in Banff. However, as we neared closed to Sunshine Village, it suddenly cleared up and the area lived up to its name!

We arrived by 10:45 am (I had booked for 11 am) and off we went! This gondola ride was LONG because this mountain is HIGH. Also, be sure to dress warmly—it was much colder and windier at the summit. The gondola was a nice leisurely 20 minutes long but once we got off, we still had to head over to another ski lift to get to the very top! This ski lift takes you up to Sunshine Meadows, where you can see a few lakes and go for a hike. Before you get on the second lift though, there is a nice lodge where you can have lunch/grab a Starbucks coffee, use facilities, etc. You also have the option to walk up to Sunshine Meadows but that walk is not short. From what we saw on the second chairlift, it’s quite steep and long.

If you plan to come to Sunshine Village, it’s better to go on a day where you don’t have anything else to do in the morning. There is so much to see up in Sunshine Meadows and the last gondola ride down is at 5 pm. If you can start earlier in the day here, you’d be able to see more. However, what we saw was sufficient for us (since it was cold and early in peak season). On a warmer day you’d probably want to spend more time here.

By the time we reached Sunshine Meadows, it was about 11:30 am and we walked around and down to the Rock Isle lookout and back and finished by 1 pm. By time we took the two lifts down the mountain, it was about 3 pm in the parking lot. So yes, start early if you can!

After we finished with Sunshine Mountain, we headed back to the hotel to rest up and have some late lunch. The town of Banff is very cute with lots of restaurants but also pricey. Think I just ended up getting a Subway sandwich because I wanted something quick and take a break on my bed!

LAKE MINNEWASAKA CRUISE

Since we were going all out on this trip, we bought the Ultimate Explorer Banff pass, which allows you to do three activities, such as the Banff Gondola, the Columbia Icefield Adventure and Skywalk, and the Lake Minnewasaka Cruise. While Banff Gondola and the Columbia Icefield activities were great, this cruise is SKIPPABLE! Only do it if you if you’re taking little kids and want an hour of boat cruising time without having to do any physical exertion. Our boat cruise was far from being relaxing, as there were tons of kids/families on the boat and the boat is not really that nice, nor there is not really a platform to stand outside or take pics in. There is a small area in the back of the boat, but it’s not really a ‘must do.’ Going down to the lake is recommended as it is beautiful, but to go out on the lake is not necessary. Plus the windows on the boat don’t make it optimal for good picture taking.

We took the 5 pm cruise, which is the last cruise of the day. They also offer a booze cruise but I think renting a canoe would be more interesting.

After returning to shore by 6 pm, we drove over Tunnel Mt. trailhead to check it out since it was nearby (the lake is about 15-20 min. from town). It was getting dark at this time so we didn’t try to do the trail, but wish we had time! This trailhead overlooks the town of Banff and there is limited parking, though you could walk from town to do it.

BOW FALLS

At around 7 pm, we decided to head over to Fairmont Banff to check it out. It’s open to the public and we parked nearby on the street. We ended up wandering around the grounds and finding a path in the back of the hotel (near the German restaurant!) to Bow Falls. Since we missed this the day before due to the wandering elk, we took the opportunity to check out Bow Falls and so glad we did! It was very pretty and lots of public parking next to it. The sun was starting to set lower so the lighting for pictures around this time was great, too.

This was the last thing we saw before heading to dinner and much needed night of sleep! A great packed day 2 of the trip though!

The Duomo Cathedral in Milan - one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen in Europe!

May 2019: Milan, Italy Trip Report

June 26, 2019

Is Milan Worth Visiting?

Oh, Milano! I’ve been to Italy three times but never to Milan. Milan is known as the fashion capital of Italy and being from the fashion capital of the U.S. (NYC), I’ve never had an interest to visit (sorry, I can’t help it I’m a bit of a travel snob!). Once in a while I do like going to different cities to escape mine and this year for Memorial Day weekend I was in the mood to do just that. A few friends had been before and thought Milan was underwhelming though, with not much to do. After spending four days here, I disagree! I loved Milan and totally think it’s worth visiting if you’re in the mood to go somewhere culturally different than the U.S., easy to get around, and okay with exploring art/design culture and great Italian food.

Granted, Milanese Italian food is not as good as other areas of Italy but still better than the U.S.! Of all the countries I’ve been to around the world (40+), Italy is my favorite country to go back to. There is so much concentration of things to see, do and eat in this country and every time I come I fall more in love with Italian food.

From NYC, Milan is an easy trip to plan as well, where the flight times are pretty good and direct that you can spend a full four days here. I flew with Emirates Airlines (first time ever), leaving Wednesday night at 10:30 pm and arriving in Milan by Thursday, noon. Returning, my flight back to NYC from Milan was at 4 pm and I got back into JFK by 7 pm.

For those who fly with Emirates to Italy from NYC: definitely plan to arrive to the airport early to check in!!! I got to the airport by 8 pm and I barely had enough time to check in and grab some dinner before boarding the flight. Check in took FOREVER as everyone has to check in the front desk and I think a lot of people take this flight with a layover in Milan and then onwards to their flying destination in the UAE. It was probably the longest check in wait I’ve had in a long time when traveling. Flying back from Milan, I also arrived to the airport 3 hours early and I’m glad I did since I also needed to go to the tax-refund area as well (Note: As of May 2019, if you’re bringing your tax-free goods with you on the carry-on, they make you get the tax-free refund AFTER check-in security. If you have it in your checked luggage, you’re allowed to process it in an area BEFORE security. Sounds like these new rules were effective in the last year or so; definitely research for your travels!).

Why I Loved Visiting Milan

Milan is so much different than Rome, Florence, and Venice. I found it out be more classy, laid back, less touristy, and relaxing. Granted, maybe I was there during a good time of the year (late May) but I felt so safe walking around the streets of Milan. Sometimes when you visit other European cities, you need to be cautious of ‘bad’ or degenerate neighborhoods but I didn’t come across any sketchy streets. Of course that’s not to say there’s no crime but I felt safe and was never harassed or asked for money like I am in most other places. I also thought Milan moved at a relaxing pace and was less overwhelming with people than other Italian cities. I stayed in the ‘up and coming’ area of Tortona, which is near the southern end of the city and close to the Navigli area (which has a few canals and is very hip/more young and artsy. The Air BnB I stayed in was very nice and centrally located close to the Porta Genova Metro Station. The Duomo, which is in city center, was within a 20-25 minute walk. It was very easy to get around on the metro, trams, or with your own legs.

Milan is also great as it’s a jumping point for Lake Como and other surrounding areas. I wish I had more time to do day trips to the lake regions but I didn’t have time since it was a long weekend trip.

Spa Time

The highlight of my entire weekend was spending a day at QC Terme Milano. OMG this was one of the best day spa experiences I’ve ever had! I would pass through Milan just to enjoy this pleasurable day of bliss and relaxation. Unlike my other trips, I didn’t really spend too much time pre-planning as I plan so much for work and my personal life that I was ok just winging this weekend. However, anytime I travel solo, I always look up spa places in case I get bored or don’t have much else to do. I am SO glad I came across this little slice of heaven on Earth. I’ve been to a ton of spas around the world and in NYC and for the level of amenities and price, this may be my favorite one. I literally have nothing bad to say or to criticize this place.

In the halls of this artsy and wonderful spa

Why I loved QC Terme Milano:

The design of this place was so gorgeous. From the two outdoor hot tubs basking within the Romanesque stone walls to the bird-cage nap room and the underground jacuzzis, everything was so nicely designed and CLEAN. I also loved the tram sitting in the garden which is a dry sauna.
All the saunas were clean and had really relaxing music piping through speakers.
The steam rooms were also very nice and filled of nice aromas. There was one steam room where you can also scrub down your skin with salt and while you sit in the steam room, it melts into your skin.
There are also face lotions/creams to use and plentiful naps rooms (including a room with infrared bed lighting).
Complimentary tea and fruit was also provided. For a full meal you need to pay a la carte, UNLESS you stay til the evening hours (7 pm) when they serve you apertivo (drinks and Italian charcuterie/snacks/food) which is INCLUDED in the admission price.
Value: For a day pass, if you arrive in the morning, it’s just 48 euros!!! You can add on services like massages, etc. but I read reviews online that the massages are terrible. If you come later in the day, the admission price is less but it’s also more people.
Very close to a metro station so it’s easy to get to. I took a tram from Tortona and it only took me 15 minutes to get to. I didn’t have a rsvp and I don’t think you really need one unless you come at a busy time.

Tips

Do not come on a weekend. I came on a Friday morning, at around 10:30 am. Check in was easy (the front desk speaks minimal English but enough to get in). It was pretty empty but got a little bit more busy as the day went on. However by 1-2 pm, it died out again.
Definitely come in the morning to enjoy this place in peace and cleanliness. I could totally understand that later in the day and on weekends, it gets busier and not as well-kept.
I stayed from 10:30-4 pm, and around then, a lot more people were arriving, probably to take advantage of the apertivo hour which is included in the admission price no matter what time you arrive. So I didn’t experience it but I was okay with that since i really enjoyed lounging around!
Bring sunscreen for the hot outdoor pools!
Walk around the facility to get a sense of where everything is before enjoying it. I did a quick walk through when I arrived, but realized I truly didn’t discover everything until after being there for about three hours. Then I went back and re-visited all my favorite spots.
The locker area—they give you a card as part of locker security. I didn’t know what to do with it until someone else showed me. You need to insert this card to a slot behind the locker door, then take the key with you. I felt that my things were secure.
Be sure to explore all the rooms in the underground baths!
I am so excited this brand is planning to launch a spa here in NYC as well in a couple of years on Governor’s Island!

Nap room, where they have sounds of birds chirping. Infrared beds in the back area and another room to sleep in is beyond that as well. So much to explore here!

Outdoor jacuzzi where I spent most of my time.

Other things I did in Milan was mainly shop, visit the Duomo, and eat! The Galleria next to the Duomo is gorgeous and there is a dept. store nearby where you can head to the rooftop for a view of the Duomo and the city.

I was very lucky to get a private tour of the Duomo. A colleague of mine has a connection to the Duomo and I really enjoyed visiting it. The highlight is visiting the rooftop and the interior of the Duomo (can skip the museum, though it really does have cool artifacts). I am pretty surprised the Duomo is not talked about as much as other churches in Europe. I found it to be more beautiful than Notre Dame or La Sagrada Familia. It was so clean/well-preserved and all the intricate details and statues on the exterior are amazing to look at.

For food/drinks, it was a hit/miss. This cute little cafe below (Bar Luce) is near the Prada Foundation and was designed by Wes Anderson, an artsy American film director. The food and coffee here was very good (and at great price points for the quality!).

Another highlight was this wonderful restaurant with freshly slice prosciutto di parma and the most creamiest burrata cheese I ever had! My mouth is salivating just thinking of it. Salsamenteria di Parma has several locations throughout Milan and the milky white cream oozing out of this cheese is seared into my memory. The pasta here was nice as well but I loved my cured meats and cheese! I ended up buying some prosciutto to go to snack on the plane ride home (BEST DECISION EVER).

I also had a tasting menu meal at Langosteria, a highly rated seafood restaurant in Milan (and close to Tortona area). The food was light and delicious but pretty pricey. I did savor every bite though and langoustines are one of favorite things to eat!

Overall a wonderful short trip to Milan.

Off to another adventure today which I will try to be good about posting so I don’t fall behind on my trip reporting! :) Follow me on Instagram at thegirlwhotraveled for more photos and info!

Sunset from Douglas Family Preserve in Santa Barbara

April 2019: West Coast Trip Report (L.A. & Santa Barbara)

May 13, 2019

I took a long weekend trip over Easter Weekend 2019 to L.A. and Santa Barbara. I’ve been to L.A. quite a few times, most recently last September for a work trip and New Years Eve 2016. I really do love the West Coast and could totally see myself live out there someday. As much as I love NYC, the older I get, the more I crave outdoor space, access to nature, and being into health & wellness. L.A. has changed a lot in past 18 years (I first visited when I was 21) and I love how the quality of produce/food is fresher, there’s tons of beachside communities to visit, there’s a great amount of culture and activities, and the weather is usually great (compared to East Coast 6 month long winters!).

For this trip I went out to visit a friend and we did a short overnight stay in Santa Barbara. My impressions of Santa Barbara were as follows:

Cute beachside town - has a lot more character than Santa Monica and other places closer to L.A. I think it’s because it’s way less touristy (it’s a 90 minute drive north of L.A.) so it doesn’t feel as overcrowded as Santa Monica does, even though SB also has a pier/wharf area, a stretch of pedestrian-friendly shopping area, and nice beaches.
The food scene is delish - the best meal of the trip was at Les Marchands and the Lark. Both are right next to each other and I’d rate Les Marchands better because the menu (Italian-based) was more unique and diverse.
I’d recommend spending two nights here if you want to do some hiking. We didn’t do any hiking since we spent only one night. Inspiration Point is a popular one that was recommended.
Definitely go to the Douglas Family Preserve for catching a glorious sunset. This park sits on a cliff above Arroyo Beach and accessible to the public from a residential street. Can take an Uber there (plenty of street parking though) and lots of locals/dog walkers walking around in the evening.
Visit the wine valley. We did a bike tour with iBike Santa Barbara. It was well organized and the bike tour was nice and relaxing. We rode 13 miles around and then had a few wine tastings and lunch. This took up most of a day.
A lot of great spas are here too but I think it’s only worth visiting a spa if you’re going to use their amenities as well. I looked into their prices and most massages/treatments started at $200+ so I wouldn’t go just for a treatment and leave. You should make it worth your time/value by spending a few hours relaxing in whatever amenities the spa offers too. I think since in NYC I can get a great (though no frills) massage for under $60 an hour, I find it hard to pay 3-4x that amount and just spend less than two hours at a spa.
Overall I enjoyed Santa Barbara— great for couple, girlfriend getaways, and families. There really is something for everyone! If I go back it would be more for spa and hiking.

My time in L.A. was fun as well—my favorite place to eat in L.A. this trip around was at Nightmarket in Venice Beach. Amazing Southeast Asian food and knowledgable waitstaff who made excellent menu suggestions! Mama Shelter was also a fun rooftop bar in downtown L.A. with great cocktails and service. I look forward to future visits back!

View of Albuquerque, NM from Sandia Peak.

February 2019: New Mexico Trip Report

March 22, 2019

I spent New Years Eve 2018 weekend out in Nashville, TN but I’m too lazy to recap it! I was there for about four days, which felt a tad too long when it’s too cold to stay outside. Nashville was nice to visit; the highlights were eating fried chicken at Hattie B’s and getting amazing cocktails at speakeasy bar Patterson House. Otherwise Nashville seemed like a blend of Las Vegas/Charleston/New Orleans to me and every neighborhood is pretty spread out.

Over President’s Day weekend 2019 in February I took a mini trip out west to New Mexico and visited Albuquerque and Santa Fe. I loved driving out there, the sky is this brilliant blue that’s different from what I see on the East Coast and the landscape was breathtaking. Unfortunately I was the driver most of the time and unable to take pictures from the road though.

Getting to New Mexico from NYC

I booked this trip back in December and it was one of the cheapest direct flights I could find from NYC to anywhere in the U.S. for President’s Day weekend. I think the non stop Jet Blue flight was just around $300 or so, leaving Thursday evening 8 pm NYC and arriving in Albuquerque by 11 pm. As soon as we arrived, we picked up our car rental from Enterprise and spent the night at a low cost hotel by the airport. Stayed at Baymont by Wyndman, which has a 24 hour front desk and seemed like a ‘newer’ hotel. I’d definitely recommend it for a short stay, the place was clean, comfortable, and the hotel breakfast was the best of our weekend.

I thought New Mexico would be warmer than NYC but I was completely wrong! There was one day of 40-50 degree weather but otherwise it was just as cold as NYC (25-40 degrees Fahrenheit). It was a dry cold at least but it got pretty windy at times too.

Day 1 (Friday):

The first day was the warmest day of the weekend so we took the opportunity to check out Sandia Tram, which is one of the world’s longest tram ride up (about 15 minutes). The views are very scenic and it was pretty snowy and a bit icy at the top. It takes you up to Sandia Mountain, and skiers/snowboarders may be on your ride as well. When it’s warmer you could go on hiking trails around there but otherwise you’ll probably just spend about 20 minutes looking at the various lookout points before catching the tram back down.

After we finished the tram ride it was about 11 am and we drove up to Santa Fe but went to Tent Rocks National Monument first. It’s on the way and about an hour and change from Albuquerque. It’s an easy place to visit but you would definitely need to check the website to see if it’s open due to weather conditions. Luckily for us the easy 1 mile loop was open (but another trail further in was closed).

Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

I love how you can see the cuts and colors of the rocks. No hiking shoes necessary if you’re doing this easy loop around the park. Afterwards we checked into our next hotel, the Homewood Suites Santa Fe, which is coincidentally next to a casino. The hotel was nice though, also clean and comfortable, but the breakfast wasn’t as good as the previous one. It’s also about a 15-20 min. drive from city center, but much more affordable.

Day 2 (Saturday)

The weather forecast was turning colder by the minute so we started the day heading out to Bandelier National Monument. We headed out there from the hotel around 9 am and it seemed like we were the only ones going as we hardly saw any other cars on the hour drive over. The drive into the park is also very nice, as you’re going through semi-twisty roads (safe though) but you should also check that the park/trails are open before heading over there. On the way, there is a pullout stop/parking to check out the canyon views.

Canyon view on the way to Bandelier National Park

I didn’t quite know what to expect of Bandelier but it was a fun visit. When you pull into the main parking lot, there will be a Visitor’s Center where you can get information on the trails. On the day we went, only the main trail was open but that’s the main attraction anyway!

Bandelier is a place that was abandoned 500 years ago by Native Americans. They basically create a community and homes within the mountains/caves and you can climb up through the ladders to have a look. It kind of felt like being in an episode of the Flintstones!

The trail loop is about 1.5 mile but some of it was covered in snow/water so we stuck to the main trail along the cave homes. Kids would definitely love playing and scrambling around, but adults will as well!

The forecast called for snow and just when we finished exploring the part of the cave homes, it started flurrying. The weather around here changes so fast!

After having some lunch, we then went to take a glass blowing sculpture class with Prairie Dog Glass. It was so much fun and I highly recommend it! You just have to call in advance and make an appointment for a private lesson. It was kind of expensive ($180 an hour) but then when I got back to NYC and saw how much more expensive it is NYC (like about $200+ and it’s not private class and you only get to make one thing) I think i got a good deal in New Mexico! At this class, it’s a one on one private session and you basically can make as many objects as you can within the allotted hour. I chose to do a vase, bowl (20 min each) and a paperweight (15 minutes). And you get to keep it all!

For the most part the instructor is helping and guiding you but you get to pick the colors, twirl the molted glass in the hotter-than-lava oven, and help shape your project. I really enjoyed it and would love to try it again sometime.

I always wondered how they make the ‘flower’ inside the paperweight. Basically they create the flower in a mold, and then they dip that flower shape mold into another layer of molten glass to encase/seal it in. After finishing these pieces, they’re placed in a sealed closet to cool down and then you return the next day (as early as 9 am; our class was at 2 pm) to pick up and take home with you. The instructor will pack it up in bubble wrap for travel as well.

Day 3 (Sunday)

Sunday Funday! We woke up to 26 degree weather but it didn’t matter as we planned to spend half the day at Japanese-inspired spa Ten Thousand Waves. This spa has been around forever and is about a 10-15 minute drive from city center of Santa Fe. Definitely make a private spa reservation in advance! I called maybe 3 weeks before the trip and there was only ONE time slot left for the private hot tub/sauna room I wanted to book.

As far as spas go, I’ve been to many around the world and this was a nice local one to visit. The prices compared to elsewhere in the world were fairly affordable! The cheapest would be to do the day spa admission, which is $28 for the day and you get to hang out in the communal areas like the Grand Bath. There are also public same-sex only hot tubs (women/men-only) which are also communal but smaller (holding maybe 6 people max at a time. And they have this lovely outdoor foot bath, where you can sit and soak your tired tootsies while wearing a bath robe and sipping complementary tea.

I ended up grabbing a private hot tub/sauna rsvp for 12:15 pm at the Ofuro hot tub. This was money WAY WELL SPENT. Oh my goodness for $59 per person we had this lovely hot tub and dry sauna with private shower/toilet/lounge area for a glorious 90 minutes!!! 90 doesn’t sound long but it was just enough. The water is really hot and full of minerals. I couldn’t really stay in more than 15 minutes at a time. Since the communal areas can be crowded (and kid friendly) it was nice to have this private space to ourselves. In addition, if you book a private spa the communal areas are ‘free’ for use. I loved this one too as it was shaded (we had a roof) but also ‘open windows’ to the outside. I wish I could come back here once a week!

There is an intercom that will tell you when you have 15 minutes left in your time slot. The doors are locked so no one will come in and bother you. It’s really an amazing way to relax and the bath area was super clean and had ice water to drink/refresh yourself with as well as plenty of towels and floor slippers.

We arrived at the spa at 9 am on Sunday. It was pretty quiet/empty but got fuller around 11 am. You can also book other appointments like massages but I would NOT recommend the private foot massage. Not worth it. Was less than half an hour and cost as much as the private hot tub.

After the spa, we went to pick up the glass work we made the previous day. Then we drove down to Albuquerque to visit the city but overall it was too cold to spend too much time outdoors there. On Monday (our fourth day) In Albuquerque we visited Old Town but it was pretty blah. The casino was ok to kill time in. The Petroglyph park was nice but too cold to walk outside. So I didn’t enjoy this area as much as we did Santa Fe!

Our flight back to NYC was supposed to leave at midnight but it ended up being delayed til 2:30 am! So the last day there wasn’t as ‘fun’ as the previous days but really enjoyed our time in Santa Fe.

November 2018: Mendoza, Argentina

December 27, 2018

What better way to end a 2+ week trip to South America than visiting the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina??? As much as I was excited to go to Patagonia, I was also really looking forward to enjoying the gastronomical forces of Mendoza.

How to Get to Mendoza, Argentina

From NYC? Super easy! Fly direct to Buenos Aires (EZE) and then book another flight to Mendoza from the domestic airport (AEP). The flight between Buenos Aires and Mendoza is about three hours or less.
From Patagonia? Do a ton a of research! We really had to coordinate this carefully as there are not that many flights out of El Calafate. In addition, within Argentina, many flights require a stop in Buenos Aires before venturing onto another city, even if the city is not in the same direction as BA. Quite annoying but I think it’s just the way their infrastructure is. At the beginning of planning our trip for November back in June, I remember seeing a LATAM flight at around 4 pm on a Saturday leaving from El Calafate to BA, and then to Mendoza. A few days later, that flight completely disappeared!! And never returned (I checked again as our trip got closer). So we ended up booking with Aerolineas Argentina again, which was really great and on time throughout our trip. Since we knew we were going to be in El Chalten a few days, we needed to plan our trip to Mendoza carefully. We ended up booking a 2:15 pm Saturday flight out of El Calafate to Buenos Aires EZE, arriving at 5:10 pm. We then had to transfer to the AEP airport and then catch an 8:20 pm flight from AEP to Mendoza, getting in close to 11 pm. We had no other choice because there were NO flights that we could book from El Calafate to Mendoza (via BA) on Sunday, the next day. Initially we were going to try to do two full days (Thurs + Fri) in El Chalten, then leave super early in the morning to go to Perito Moreno glacier and then get dropped off at the airport by 12:30 pm. However, we ended up going to the glacier on Friday and then taking our time to get to the airport on Saturday. I’m glad we ended up doing this as we wanted to enjoy visiting the glacier and not feel rushed. In addition, getting from EZE to AEP was smoother this time around as there was no rush hour traffic when we left EZE at 5:30 pm. We made it to the airport just after 6, with time to grab dinner and check in.

Where to Stay in Mendoza

There are three main areas people generally stay in Mendoza:

Mendoza City Center - you can stay here and take buses or hire a driver to take you around to the vineyards
Lujan de Cuyo - This area is just about 20 minutes from the city with many vineyards concentrated around here
Valle de Uco - This area is about an hour away from the city with a ton of newer vineyards and I recommend staying out here to be closer to the Andes Mountains and hire a private driver!

On our first night, we stayed at the Sheraton Hotel in Mendoza since we were there really just to sleep. After days of backpacking/roughing it a bit, it was nice to stay in a true hotel! The Sheraton is the tallest building in the city with a 360 degree view of the city from its restaurant.

The rest of the time we stayed at Postales Valle de Uco, a small, intimate boutique hotel which helped us organize our taxi driver and vineyard visits.

A very important thing to know when planning Mendoza is to do your research on which places you want to hit up! I didn’t know this until a few weeks before we left but most of the vineyards are either closed on Sunday or Monday, and we were there from Sunday to Wednesday! Luckily I was still able to organize a decent itinerary but it was a bit stressful trying to coordinate it all. You should also double check/request the tours are given in English, if you want to do a tour in addition to the tasting. I believe that Valle de Uco tends to be closed on Mondays while Lujan de Cuyo tends to be closed on Sundays. Not all vineyards are closed on these days, but most seem to be when I was checking. And just because something is stated on a website doesn’t mean it’s true, so always call or email yourself to ask (Bodega Andeluna and your Sunday sunset wine tastings, I’m looking at you).

Valle de Uco is a newer wine region, having being discovered and built upon 15-20 years ago and many more continue to be built today. Most are foreign investors from Europe but they’re all different and each vineyard also has unique architecture/history to it.

Almost all the views at all the vineyards were like this—so beautiful! This is from Alpasion.

The Bodegas

Bodegas means a wine a shop or a cellar, not just your local NYC small grocery store! The suggestion is to visit only 3 vineyards a day, and go out to a dinner at night. Definitely make a reservation a month or two before you go, especially if you’re staying on a weekend. Sometimes a credit card was necessary to hold a meal reservation but not always. Our Mendoza itinerary was as follows:

Sunday

Lunch at Bodega Lagarde in Lujan de Cuyo
Transfer to Postales Valle de Uco hotel from Sheraton Hotel
Dinner at Alpasion in Valle de Uco

Monday

Morning visit to Bodega Monteviejo in Valle de Uco
Lunch at O. Fourniers in Valle de Uco
Pool time at Postales and dinner at the hotel

Tuesday

Morning visit to Bodega La Azul in Valle de Uco
Lunch at Bodega Andeluna in Valle de Uco
Afternoon visit to Bodega DiamAndes in Valle de Uco
Dinner at the Vines Resort in Valle de Uco

Wednesday

Morning visit to Bodega Dominio del Plata in Lujan de Cuyo (also known as Susana Balbo)
Extra visit to Carmelo Patti in Lujan de Cuyo [Note: we did NOT have rsvps here—we called up that morning last minute to see if we could swing by and he squeezed us in! Tastings are free; this guy basically makes wine out of his home and loves to share it]
Head to airport for 3:30 pm flight back to Buenos Aires

Other Notes

I had made a rsvp at Bodega Melipal but I got my dates mixed up! So didn’t get to go but that was a place I wanted to try as well. I made a back up rsvp for lunch at Bodega Norton in Lujan de Cuyo but we were so full from eating basically the same menu every day we ended up skipping this on Wednesday.

Of all the vineyards we visited, these were my favorites, ranked:

Best All Around Vineyard: Bodega Lagarde

This was our first vineyard that we visited and coincidentally the most we bought wine to take home from. The grounds here are beautiful, the food was fresh and delicious, and the wines were fantastically drinkable. I bought three different wines from here, and they also had some deals going on which we took advantage of (like if you buy 4 bottles you get another for free, so we split up the deal). I would say most of the vineyards we visited, we can’t buy the wine here in the USA which is why we made sure to buy our favorites. I was worried if I bought too much right away I wouldn’t have room in my luggage but the wines from this bodega were my favorite of the trip. Lunch with wine pairings came out to about 2325 pesos per person (I think one of us had a premium tasting which we shared).

Best Lunch: Bodega Andeluna

Although the food at Bodega Lagarde was good, the lunch at Bodega Andeluna was even better! The salad tasted like it fell from spring and the steak was perfectly cooked at medium rare. The restaurant and vineyard is also gorgeous, but I like the intimate feeling of Lagarde (the servers were generous with their pours!) as a best all-around. Andeluna is tops for their menu though, which also included a fresh fish and other items. Lunch with wine pairing was 1675 pesos per person.

Best Architecture: O.Fourniers

I didn’t get a picture of it but I loved the buildings at O.Fourniers. They look like spaceships set amongst the Andes Mountains. The restaurant we ate at here was also nice and worth visiting, sitting atop a man-made pond.

Best Part of a Conglomerate: Bodega Monteviejo

Bodega Monteviejo is a grand winery, one of the most popular ones from the Clos de Siete group, which owns 6 vineyards around Valle de Uco. Bodega DiamAndes is also part of this group and though the vineyard was grand and fancy, I didn’t enjoy the wines as much. DiamAndes wines seemed heavier, more full-bodied which I’m not a fan of. Monteviejo had a few nice wines and I still regret not buying a inky Malbec we tried.

Best Boutique Vineyard: Bodega La Azul

Bodega La Azul is the only Argentinian/locally-run winery in Valle de Uco. The family has owned the land for years and it was started by a female. We sat in the shade as we listened to the history of this beautiful place. I read that the food here is also great but their reservations for lunch were full so we only got to do a tour. Very intimate and you can also buy jarred fruit/garlic (garlic is plentiful in this region). Bodega Dominio del Plata is also run by a woman and was a nice visit as well, though it’s not small by any means! It’s the total opposite and Susana Balbo is well-known internationally for her wines.

Bringing outside in, at Bodega DiamAndes

Best Dinner: The Vines Resort and Spa

If I had the money I would definitely stay here next time! This resort is gorgeous and looks like a Caribbean hotel that was plopped down in the middle of the Andes Mountains. We wanted to use the spa here but it’s reserved for guests only. However, you can come for dinner which I highly recommend! The chef is well celebrated and this was the best meal of our Mendoza trip. They don’t have their own wine as some hotels might so we ordered a bottle of Solo Contigo, which is another local wine and after trying it I wish we had known about this vineyard as I loved it and would have loved to take a bottle home! The menu here has a lot of steak options and I had the grilled wagyu-styled steak which was excellent.

You haven’t had Malbec unless you have it in Argentina!!! Highly recommend a trip out to Mendoza, especially if you have a penchant for gastronomy and art.

Getting Around Mendoza

Our hotel hooked us up with a local driver who lives in the Valle de Uco region. He doesn’t have an online presence but was super reliable at affordable prices (if you’re in a group). He charged us about 3000 pesos a day if we visited 3 vineyards (they wait for you while you’re there) and 2000 pesos if we went out to a nearby dinner in the area. Almost every vineyard took us btwn 20-40 minutes to get tp (on avg. it was mostly 30 min). and we paid cash for all our taxi rides. He also charged us 3500 pesos to pick us up from the Sheraton to get to Valle de Uco and on the way back, it was 4500 pesos because we also went to a couple of vineyards and then to the airport. At the time of our visit the exchange rate was $1 USD = 35 pesos. He was reliable and we were never late to get to anywhere.

If interested in using him please feel free to contact me at [girlfromny] at gmail and I’m happy to share his info!

November 2018: El Perito Moreno Glacier Trip Report

December 23, 2018

El Perito Moreno Glacier or Glacier Grey?

When I was planning this trip to Patagonia, I totally planned on skipping El Perito Moreno Glacier. I’ve seen quite a few glaciers already—I did a glacier ice hike in New Zealand at Franz Josef, I’ve seen different glaciers in Alaska, and visited one in Iceland. In addition, a few people I spoke with said Glacier Grey was more interesting than El Perito Moreno. However, one of my friends I traveled with had never seen glaciers before and wanted to see both and now I’m glad I did. Having seen both, I would recommend visiting both. They’re similar, but different experiences and in my opinion, here’s why:

Glacier Grey is enormous. There’s three front-facing sides to it and it’s a grand ice field. It’s wider in scale and scope compared to El Perito Moreno.
El Perito Moreno is taller. While it’s also pretty large, it’s not as majestic as Glacier Grey but the height is noticeable.
Glacier Grey you can see on a boat excursion, which is longer than Perito Moreno’s boat tour. If you do this boat tour, you do NOT need to do the one at Perito Moreno.
The boat ride at Perito Moreno is pretty boring as it only goes back and forth one side of the glacier (whereas in Glacier Grey you visit all three sides).
The platform viewing boardwalks at Perito Moreno is a GREAT way to experience the scope of the glacier and to be above the glacier itself.
Hence, if you have time, visit both. Do the boat tour and glacier hike at Glacier Grey, and do the platform viewing boardwalks at Perito Moreno Glacier. If you only have time to do one, you’re not missing out too much on the other one.

Getting to El Perito Moreno Glacier from El Chalten

So, I can’t offer much advice in terms of public transportation as we took a private transfer service with our lodge, Aires del Fitz. The owner also runs his own car service operation so you can contact him for that separately. Initially we were going to do a side excursion to El Perito Moreno Glacier in the morning before we flew out to Mendoza in the afternoon but we were worried about not having enough time to enjoy the glaciers so we ended up going on our 2nd full day in El Chalten (since we didn’t do any more hikes).

The roads from El Calafate and El Chalten are SMOOTH. I read before the trip that it was bumpy with lots of potholes but maybe that was a long time and they’re repaired? I didn’t find the travel to be difficult at all. In the private transfer, it took us 2 hours and 15 minutes between the two towns. From El Calafate, it’s about another 30-45 minutes to El Perito Moreno Glacier Park. Once you reach the first entrance though, the road and speed limit is bumpier and slower.

The entrance fee as of Nov. 2018 was 600 pesos cash per person. The boat tour runs almost every hour and is another 600 pesos (which you can pay with credit card). The boat tour sells tickets in a booth close to the shuttle buses that take you to the top of the boardwalk platforms.

We left El Chalten at 8:45 am and with one bathroom rest stop, we arrived at El Perito Moreno Glacier at 12:30 pm. We immediately booked tickets for the 1 pm boat tour, which is around the corner from the cafeteria on site. The boat tour was ok; we had just been on one a few days earlier at Glacier Grey so this ride seemed like a repeat for us. Totally skippable either way, unless you just really want to go on a boat tour!

Since we rushed to get on the boat tour, we did the rest of the day wrong! The boat starts where the boardwalk ends, but we thought that’s where the boardwalk begins so walked UP on the platforms. The right/better way to do it is to take the free shuttle buses up to the top of boardwalk platforms and work your way all the way down. Since we realized this too late (we only had 4 hours here and one hour went to the boat tour, the 2nd hour went to eating lunch, so we only had two hours on the platform), we just kept going up the platforms.

However, I loved how close you get to the glacier and the view when you get close to the top is beautiful!

View from higher up on the boardwalk platforms

We did hear the ice calving a few times as well which was nice. We would hear calving every 10 minutes or so. We left at 4:30 pm and got back to El Chalten close to 8 pm (there was a bit more traffic thru El Calafate than in the morning).

I do wish we had more time to navigate the platforms as we definitely did not experience all of it. I don’t think we missed that much but if we had 3 hours instead of 2, that would’ve been perfect.

November 2018: El Chalten Recap

December 18, 2018

El Chalten

Everyone I spoke with prior to the trip said I HAD to visit El Chalten, Argentina too, which is about two hours northwest of El Calafate. Most people either start with El Chalten before going to Torres del Paine or vice versa. I’m glad we did Torres del Paine first!

Quite a few people feel El Chalten is similar/more beautiful than Torres del Paine. I think it really depends on what weather you’re having as I think both are very similar to each other! Mt. Fitz Roy at El Chalten is the inspiration for the Patagonia logo, by the way, but to me, it looks very similar to the Blue Towers except the jagged mountain is on the left overlooking a beautiful lake while the Towers are on the right.

Anyway at this point of our trip we were so exhausted from hiking that we did not attempt to hike to Mt. Fitz Roy. Instead we opted for the easier hike, going to Cerro Torre.

However, let me backtrack first and discuss how we got from Puerto Natales to El Chalten.

Getting from Puerto Natales to El Chalten via El Calafate

We took the same bus back from the way we came, hopping on with Cootra. I had a small mishap before we got on the bus though—we were in the taxi going from our hotel to the bus terminal in Puerto Natales (a very short ride) when I realized I forgot an important bag (it was my daypack with some personal effects) at the hotel! Thankfully I realized this before I got out of the cab and so the driver took me back but he definitely overcharged me for the ride (should’ve been like 2000 pesos but he asked for 5000! But honestly this is like a $3 difference, but still). Had I not realized it before we got out of the taxi, I may have been screwed as the bus terminal was really busy and there were no free taxis.

Anyway, the bus left at 7:30 am on a Wednesday morning and it was nice to get the border crossing over with at the beginning of the ride. We arrived in El Calafate at 1:30 pm and waited for our private transfer to pick us up. I had booked us lodging at Aires del Fitz, which is family owned and has just 4 rooms. The guy who owns/operates it lives on the property and built out other units for rent. He also offers transfer services for reasonable prices so we just booked with him to pick us up from El Calafate to El Chalten. The roundtrip price for 4 of us $300 USD, so about $75 pp. I don’t think this was significantly more than the bus, but also the bus schedule is limited so this made sense for us to do. We found the roads to be quite paved (prior to going I heard there were a lot of potholes but maybe they fixed the roads?) and it took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes to get in between the two towns.

El Chalten is tinier than El Calafate but has as similar vibe—laid back, lots of bars and restaurants. A couple of friends did laundry in town here as well (very cheap) and the weather here was incredibly fickle. About 15 minutes after the above picture was taken, it hailed for half an hour!

Cerro Torre Hike

The day after we got into El Chalten, we decided to do the Cerro Torre hike, which brings you to a lake, Laguna Torre. It is an 18 km hour round trip hike (you go back in the way you came, it’s not a loop) and there are markers along the way (first I’d seen anywhere during our hikes). The markets were extremely helpful. The hiking trail starts at the edge of the town (easy to find, follow the signs!).

We had pretty good weather for this hike. We left at 9:30 am and I’m glad I brought my trekking poles on this trip as the first 2 km are steep to go up and then km 3 + 4 is a mixture of uphill and downhill. I also didn’t wear my knee brace for this hike and I really felt the difference—I’m really glad I had it for Torres del Paine as my knees were a bit sore from this hike. After km 4 though it’s pretty much flat to the end of the trail, which is pretty well marked and a lot of people along the way.

There’s also a couple of bathrooms on this hike (ok, more like port-a-potties with the hole in the ground) but bring your own paper/cleansers!

As we got closer to Laguna Torre, it got cloudier and windier. At times along the trail we could see the top of Mt. Fitz Roy (the highest points of the mountain to the right below) but not much.

We at least got to taste the freshness of glacier water one more time on this trek.

By the time we reached the end though it was really gusting and we took shelter behind some short wall fortresses to rest and have lunch. The clouds covered the money shot for us but it was still lovely.

We spent a lot of time taking pictures here and left at 1:15 pm, getting back to town by 4:30 pm. Although for me it wasn’t as scenic as Torres del Paine (though it was pretty!) it was a much easier hike than any of the trails we did on the 5 day trek. This was the last hike we did on our trip and a nice way to close out.

November 2018: Day 4 & 5 W Trek Recap

December 16, 2018

Day 4 W Trek Recap: 11 km (6.8 miles) from Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Grey

On our fourth day of the W Trek, our luck with beautiful weather ran out. While I woke up early in hopes of catching a glorious red sunrise, I was greeted by dark clouds, wind, and light rain. After the standard breakfast (where we also heard music for the first time in days in the cafeteria!), we packed up to leave by 9:15 am. The hike to Refugio Grey was only 4 hours but after three days of trekking, we were all pretty worn out and 4 hours felt like 8!

The wind didn’t help either—it was so windy that I never looked up the first hour of the walk. All I could do was focus on the pair of boots walking in front of me. I knew if I looked up my hood/cap that I wore underneath would likely fly away as well as the winds were quite forceful. This hike is pretty much uphill to the midway point and then descends on the other side. At this point it was pretty hard to stay motivated and every time I thought we climbed the hardest uphill, there was more to conquer. Unlike the previous days, the minutes ticked by slowly.

There were tricky sections of the hike due to the steepness and the wetness. The coolest part of the trek was seeing Glacier Grey from afar. I didn’t allow myself to look at pictures before this trip and so I was surprised and delighted at the sheer enormity of it in person. The height and the width of this glacier was massive!

The last hour of the hike was a struggle. I felt like Phoebe, from the TV show Friends, when she flails her arms in all different directions when she runs. I was definitely flailing my arms and trekking poles around to steady myself and climb down towards the next refugio. And as soon as I caught sight of a gray roof through the trees, I felt like one of those characters from Lord of the Rings, when they light up at seeing their destination in the distance. I think I practically ran to the lodge in those last 5 minutes of the trek. I felt exhilarated when I arrived as it meant I was finished completing the W Trek! Even though it was physically and at times mentally tough, I did enjoy and appreciate the experience. It was great to disconnect from the world and just focus on what’s going on right in front of you.

We finished the trek at 1 pm but when we arrived, we found out that it may not be over and my heart sank. The W Trek can be done in 4 days (with the 5th day reserved for an optional kayaking tour or glacier hike before taking a boat out back to the south entrance of the park across the lake) but the weather forecast for the next day called for 90 km/hour wind (like 55 mph). If our boat ride out of the park from Refugio Grey got canceled, that meant we would have to hike back to Refugio Paine Grande and try to catch a boat from there. I really did not have the energy to re-do the four hour hike all over again, even though it’s the shortest leg of the trek! Or at least not with my backpack on as my shoulder had started to feel really sore.

After resting at Refugio Grey for a bit, we took a short walk to see Glacier Grey more up close in person. The glacier overlook is about a 15 min, walk from the refugio.

Afterwards the group split up a bit and I decided to go up to the suspension bridge overlooking the glacier. There are two suspension bridges and they’re supposed to be the most ‘exciting’ ones in the park. The first one is about 30-40 minutes away from Refugio Grey while the second one is another 30-45 min. away from the first bridge. The first bridge is soooo Indiana Jones! You have to climb up like you’re climbing a ladder to get on it and only 4 people at a time are allowed on it.

Walking across the bridge is a bit thrilling as well as you’re dangling high over a stream. It was the highlight of the day for me with Glacier Grey serving as a perfect backdrop.

I love how blue the glaciers are here. I’ve seen quite a few (in Alaska, New Zealand, and Iceland) and Patagonian glaciers are the bluest I’ve seen! They’re blue because they’re so compact.

Day 5: Glacier Grey + Boat Ride Out of the Park

It wasn’t until about 11 am the next morning that we found out the 2 pm boat ride was cleared to go. Our group was thrilled! Although the day was mostly clear, the winds were a bit strong but not as crazy as forecasted. Yesterday on our hike to Refugio Grey we had seen a group hike back to Paine Grande as their morning boat was canceled. So I was really happy we didn’t have to do that! Everyone in the group had other travel plans right after the trek so missing a boat was not an option.

Some people on our tour did kayaking while others did the glacier hike. As I’ve hiked on a glacier before in New Zealand, I had no interest in going again, especially since I was so tired and just wanted to relax. My friends that went loved it and enjoyed it though, and they shared that they had to a hike a mile to the glacier before putting on crampons to hike around the glacier. They acknowledged if they had to hike back to Refugio Paine Grande after the ice hike, there was no way they would’ve had the energy to do it (they left for the hike before 9 am and returned just around 1 pm so they didn’t know whether or not they had to hike back yet). The group that went on the kayaking tour ended up not kayaking at all—30 minutes after they attempted to kayak towards the glacier, the operators called it off and had them all head back to shore as the winds were so gusty and they didn’t think it was safe for them. However, they did take everyone out on a boat ride to the glacier instead as an alternative. They enjoyed it but this experience sounds similar to the boat tour they ended up taking with the rest of us at 2 pm!

Since I opted out of these optional activities, I went for a relaxing stroll back to the overlook instead and just sat admiring the gorgeous glacier.

At 1 pm we all headed down to the lake to catch our boat excursion. This boat leaves from the Southern entrance of Torres del Paine and is a sightseeing boat. Many people will take a day trip out to the glacier (and never doing the W Trek) so we were being picked up second as part of the excursion. The boat ride was really nice (they give out strong pisco sours!) and we sailed up pretty close to Glacier Grey, which has THREE not two front-facing sides.

Looking for the Night King, if you get my GoT reference :)

One last look at Torres del Paine as we sail away from the glacier

The boat tour was about an hour or so before we headed back to the southern entrance of the park. I was feeling a bit sad this leg of the trip was ending but as soon as we arrived on the other side of the lake, we were greeted by an unexpectedly arduous walk to the parking lot! Basically the winds here in this valley were probably the 90 km/hr (50 mph) winds we expected. And we had to walk across in sand with our backpacks. That 15 min. is seared in my mind as at one point if it wasn’t for my backpack I thought I’d be blown away and I almost lost my cap! Just a last reminder of how fierce the weather can be in this wild, wild place.

We reached the lot at about 4 pm where our private transfer van was waiting for us to take us back to Puerto Natales. I watched the mountains disappear from view as our van took us back to civilization. Every ache, pain, moments of hangriness, and missed hours of sleep was well worth it though.

Fin.

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November 2018: Day 2 & 3 W Trek Recap (Patagonia)

December 14, 2018

Day 2 W Trek Recap: 13 km (8 miles) from Refugio Torres Central to Refugio Los Cuernos

Day 2 was my favorite day of the W Trek mainly because I woke up energized and ready to tackle the day. Part of this exuberance stemmed from these electrolytes that were laced with caffeine but who cares, I’ll take it! My muscles were sore and stretching them the night before and the morning of really helped. Breakfast at the refugio was nice but very basic (eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, bread and yogurt). We started our hike at 9:30 am and had to retrace some of the trail we took yesterday before it splits off to Los Cuernos vs. Mirador de Torres del Paine. After about a half hour, we reached ‘new trail’ and off we went.

We had another brilliant day of warmer weather, sun, and no wind. The hike was not super easy but definitely easier compared to the day before. There were a couple of intense steep uphills for 20 minutes but overall this trail was a gradual ascent and descent throughout. After about an hour after we started, we came to this gorgeous view. I love how these two lakes are completely different tones of blue.

We hiked alongside Lake Nordenskjold for most of the trail and it was a brilliant, clear aquamarine. I remember thinking how beautiful this part of the trail was and I couldn’t imagine seeing anything more beautiful. Pictures don’t really do the views justice, everything is magnified in person.

Even the guides remarked how still the weather was. Generally due to the winds, you’d see ripples and waves on the lake, not a perfect reflection. In the two years one of our guides has been doing this trek, he said he’s only seen it like this a handful of times, when the weather was gorgeously calm.

This is the main reason why I would never do the W Trek again. I can’t imagine my experience being better than what it was with the incredible weather we had. Although I braced myself for wind and rain, we luckily only experience one day of it.

Our initial plan was to hike all the way to Domo Frances, which would’ve been another two hour hike after Los Cuernos and this section of the trail is steep. However, when we arrived at Refugio Los Cuernos for a break, our guides checked with the lodge and they had space to take us! Apparently a lot of tour companies may block off rooms but I guess there was a cancelation. The lodge allowed us to switch (although Domo Frances and Los Cuernos are operated by two different companies, I guess they work together somehow and allowed it to happen). I was relieved as Domo Frances has pretty crap reviews, even though it’s one of the newer ones. Thus we ended up finishing the day early before 4 pm and just hung out and relaxed around the lodge. You can even hear the avalanches from the French Valley here (I heard a couple in late afternoon!).

Day 3 W Trek Recap: 17 km (10.5 miles) from Refugio Los Cuernos to the French Valley to Refugio Paine Grande

This day was TOUGH and might have been even worst than the first day as it felt much longer than the 8 hours it took. We left at 8:30 am and finished at 4:30 pm. I woke up super early at 5:30 am as I wanted to see the sunrise hit the mountains and exude the sky with red. However I just missed the golden hour and only caught remnants of it (I should have skipped brushing my teeth and headed out then!). The other days were cloudy in the morning so there was no other chance.

From Refugio Los Cuernos, we hiked a very pebbly path to the beach by the lake. At the end of this was the start of an uphill climb towards Domo Frances and Refugio Italiano. We got to use decent bathroom facilities near the campsite of Domo Frances (we never saw Domo Frances as you need to go down a different pathway) and then continued on to Italiano Campsite to start the roundtrip hike up to the French Valley to see glaciers and listen to avalanches.

The hiking along this portion of the trail seemed rockier and it was definitely steep but not as steep as the very first day. Once in a while I would look up to see the views behind us but for the most part it was just go go go.

We reached the Italiano Campsite (no refugio here, just tent camping) at about 10 am and dropped off our large hiking backpacks (everyone does this but don’t leave anything important just in case!) and switched to carrying just a daypack to the French Valley. It took about two hours to get up to the overlook and we had our lunch up there while admiring the view and listening to the crumble of avalanches. This picture below doesn’t capture all of it—it’s much wider and grander in scope. We stayed up here for about 45 minutes before heading back down to pick up our bags and continuing on to Refugio Paine Grande.

After getting back to the Italiano Campsite, we headed westwards towards Paine Grande and it started to get really hot and sunny. It didn’t help that there was zero shade. In Dec. 2011 an Israeli backpacker set this forest on fire by accident and it burned for two months, destroying wildlife and a lot of this area of the park. He has since been banned from the country but the damage is brutal. Due to the damages, there are quite a few boardwalks around here instead of trails. By this point I was really tired and had to start singing songs to myself to get through the hike and make the time go by quicker. In total it took us about 2.5 hours to get from Italiano to Paine Grande but it felt way longer than that. During the last 40 minutes, the bottoms of my feet began to feel like they were burning, which I’ve never felt before when hiking.

This view below of Los Cuernos though was the highlight of my day. I’ve seen a bunch of glaciers already (New Zealand, Alaska, Iceland) and so to me, the terrain of mountains, lakes and valleys are more appealing to me. I remember sitting here and staring at this and it looked so unreal even though it was right in front of me.

As we moved closer to Paine Grande, the wind REALLY picked up and apparently this area of the park is the windiest. We were so hot and sweaty though that the gusty winds helped invigorate us to get to the end. I remember feeling a small ounce of joy once the refugio came into view from afar. As I mentioned in my Refugio post, this was my favorite place to stay because I loved the scenery around it. It was a great relief to kick off our shoes and enjoy the warm windy evening outside by the lake and watch the sunset.

Skipping stones and chatting with everyone else from our tour group here was my favorite evening of the trip.

November 2018: Day 1 W Trek Recap

December 9, 2018

Day 1 of the W Trek: 22 km (13.5 miles) Round Trip to the Blue Towers from Refugio Torres Central

On Friday, Nov. 9, we were picked up by our private transfer van at 6:30 am and driven up to Refugio Torres Central, which is by the northern entrance of Torres del Paine National Park. We arrived within two hours and saw some ucos (llamas) along the way, grazing the grass before the park entrance. After dropping off our backpacks for storage and only carrying our daypacks and trekking poles, we started off for the long hike at 9:05 am.

The weather forecast predicted by Mountain Forecast was pretty reliable. I checked the forecast every day until we arrived in Puerto Natales and it called for a calm, sunny weekend with temperatures ranging from the 40s to high 50s. To have NO wind is pretty incredible as this area is know for its forceful winds. In fact, when we stopped to take pictures of the valley early on during the hike below, our guides mentioned it’s usually too windy to stop here for pictures.

Our hike started off flat before ascending up through a gravelly trail. The halfway point of the one way route to the towers was at Refugio Chileno and we stopped there after a couple of hours of trekking for a snack and to fill our water bottles.

After passing through some valleys and the refugio, we came upon the forest, which was the easiest hike of the trail and a much needed ‘break’ as this part was mostly flat. Along the way we crossed a few suspension bridges and filled our water bottles at the glacier streams.

I was really hesitant to consider drinking from the streams but honestly it was the best water I’ve ever had in my life! No one got sick from drinking the water straight. The water is so clear. I initially bought sanitization tablets but didn’t end up bringing them anyway. I really miss drinking this water. My water bottle did have a carbon filter on it but that’s about it. There aren’t really any animals in the wild here except for pumas (which we never saw) and hares and smaller wildlife.

We reached the base of the towers at noon and from there, it was about an hour hike through a rocky path to the top. This was the hardest trail of the trip, especially after you’re already walking for hours! My trekking poles really helped me get up there. It was exhausting but not impossible to get up there. I hadn’t really eaten much of a breakfast which was a poor decision on my part as well. You will be burning tons of calories on this hike! I got an Apple Watch for this trip and based on my height (I’m 5’2”) and weight (not telling!) I burned about 2000 active calories on this hike and over 1500 resting calories. So not eating much in the morning really hurt me since I was so tired from lack of food.

The views up here were picture perfect though and the first thing I did when I got up here was whip out our packed lunch and eat everything! The trail was busy but not overwhelmingly crowded. Although to our guides, they found it to be too busy but I’m a New Yorker and didn’t find it to be that bothersome. I would say about 75-100 other people were up here when we there. Everyone was spread out so getting pictures without people in it wasn’t a challenge. The sky cleared up and no wind made it even more magical as that’s the only way you’ll also see reflections in the water (as seen above at the top!).

We stayed up here for about an hour before heading back down. Going back down was tough as your limbs are already tired and everyone is heading down around the same time too. However, I didn’t think it was that bad in terms of a crowd (compared to how it is at the popular upstate NY hikes!). Obviously starting earliest in the day is better to beat the rush. In addition, if you don’t get to the base of the towers by 4 pm, they won’t allow you to continue up for safety reasons (the sun goes down in November after 8:30 pm).

We left round 2 pm and passed through the same way we came, with a brief stop at Refugio Chileno again. All trash you bring into the park you’re expected to carry out (or throw it away in the bathrooms at the refugios!).

These horses carry the trash back down to civilization

We finished the hike at 5:45 pm. I remember as we headed back down that I must have blacked out during parts of the ascension up as I did not remember some of the areas we passed through! It was the longest hike I’ve done so far in one day. While I love the outdoors, I’m a city girl at heart and although I worked out and ‘prepared’ for this trip all year long, I still found it difficult (but not impossible).

The views of the turquoise lakes all around were beautiful and after we got back to the refugio, we did a LOT of stretching for our tired muscles. Overall it was a beautiful day and a beautiful hike. My friends will find it impossible to believe but I think this was my favorite HIKE of the trip (but not my favorite day since I was hangry half the time, but that was totally my fault!).

November 2018: The Refugios of Torres del Paine

December 3, 2018

The refugios of Torres del Paine are hostels inside the park and serve as points of rest and refuel after a long day’s hike. I didn’t know what to expect and for the most part, I found the refugios to be clean (as they can be given the amount of people who stay in them!) and I’m glad we booked early (in May 2018 for the November 9th trek with Chile Nativo). Some people in our ten person guided tour had to sleep outside in tents as beds were booked up (they booked about a month or two before we left).

The four we stayed at during the 5 day trek were:

Refugio Torres Central
Refugio Los Cuernos (we were supposed to stay in Domo Frances, which is one of the worst-reviewed places and further west on the trail but when we got to Los Cuernos, they had room and allowed us to switch!)
Refugio Paine Grande
Refugio Grey

Of all the refugios, I think Paine Grande was my favorite. It’s one of the newest ones and it’s nicely decorated inside, huge, and cozy and the landscape of Los Cuernos in the back is breathtaking (see last pic below). The dinner here was also the best (juicy big piece of chicken) but the bathrooms were kind of terrible by the time we left in the morning. Paine Grande is different than the others as I think it’s owned by the government who leases it and operated by a private company. You’ll just notice the service is different. The other Refugios are run by private firms.

I also liked Torres Central—it’s a big beautiful cozy lodge with warm common rooms but I just thought the view of Los Cuernos at Paine Grande was the best view of any refugio. In terms of comfort and cleanliness though, Torres Central was the best. Torres Central was also the ONLY one of the four lodges that had personal closets for your bags/personal stuff (you need a lock to lock it though).

Refugio Los Cuernos was my least favorite. Although it was nice, the food wasn’t as good, the staff didn’t seem as friendly as the others, and the rooms and bathrooms were the smallest. We were also given sleeping bags to sleep here inside the beds as there’s no heating.

Refugio Grey was also nice, the staff was friendly and the rooms were clean and cozy and the food was good too.

Staying at the Refugios vs. camping is more expensive but includes all your meals. I’m not sure the price of each since we booked with a tour but it’s not cheap given the fact you’re sharing rooms and bathrooms with everyone else. But there are no other options so it is what it is, unfortunately.

Pretty sure this bag from REI weighed anywhere between 16 and 19 lbs. during the trip, depending if I wore my fleece jacket and how big the bagged lunches weighed. Glad I practiced hauling 20-25 lbs. on my shoulders weeks before the trip! This bag i… — Pretty sure this bag from REI weighed anywhere between 16 and 19 lbs. during the trip, depending if I wore my fleece jacket and how big the bagged lunches weighed. Glad I practiced hauling 20-25 lbs. on my shoulders weeks before the trip! This bag is great though—it really distributes weight evenly and is comfy (the shoulder straps are cushioned).

General Characteristics of the Refugios (Here’s What to Expect)

Bring your own toiletries and towels. Even though a couple of them offered shampoo/soap, it didn’t mean it was always available. Only two of the four (Torres Central and Cuernos) had any soap for the showers. The bathrooms are cleaned certain times of the day (generally when everyone is out/sleeping) and hot water is also only available at certain times (generally after 5 pm). Towels were not always given.
Lights out at 10 pm (maybe a little later at others). This goes for electricity too so if you’re charging your phone, you might need to wait until the morning to finish up.
Dinner is served buffet-style or by meal times. There’s usually two meal times and you have to sign up for them. Our group sometimes had the early dining seating, sometimes later. Same with breakfast.
Water may/may not be available to fill up. For example on the first night, I was able to get water from the bar at Refugio Torres Central (they had a big water jug) but by the morning they ran out and wouldn’t offer anything for your personal bottle. Glacier water from the rivers and streams around the park is way better anyway but it’s so dry out there that having your bottle full is important! Bring electrolytes for added hydration!
Toilet paper must not be thrown in the toilet. As a result, the women’s room would stink after a few hours especially in the morning and late at night. It’s all thrown in the garbage, which may/may not be efficiently taken out (although the staff seems to try to keep up with it).
Any trash you take in with you into the park you’re expected to take out. The only trash cans that exist are the ones in the bathrooms so I would throw away the little litter I had in here. Trash is carried out by horses since there are no cars around either.
Hot water is a commodity but I never had any issue with getting a hot shower at any of the refugios. One shower you had to press every 90 seconds to keep the water going but otherwise I was able to take a decent shower at each refugio after every hike.
My trip was in November and while the refugios seemed full to me, not sure if they were. I never felt like it was overcrowded though. If you’re paying to tent outside, they set up the tents for you and provide everything but the tents may be a bit far from the bathroom areas. There were howling winds at night in a couple of the places we stayed at—not sure it’s pleasant to sleep in a tent but it is cheaper. I had bunk beds the whole time with my friends, anywhere between 4-7 people in a room. Co-ed as well. Bathrooms are not co-ed though.
Each refugio provides a bagged lunch. It was enough for me, I never ate any of the extra snack bars I brought on my own! It’s usually some kind of sandwich, and chocolate or sugary snack and fruit and/or cereal bars. Sometimes a juice as well. The best lunch was from Chile Nativo, who created the first day’s lunch for us to the long hike up to the Blue Towers. Second best was from Torres Central but don’t expect much. When you’re burning so many calories everything will taste good. Our sandwiches were either ham, turkey, or tuna. Breakfast was usually scrambled eggs with ham/cheese and cereal and yogurt and bread.
Pisco sours are delicious! The bars take credit card.

Pisco sour rewards for finishing a long hike

I loved the bar at Paine Grande as it had this amazing view of Los Cuernos.

Seeing a refugio towards the end of a hike was a great boost to finish. I remember on the fourth day, I was so winded but as soon as I saw the roof of Refugio Grey from half a mile away, energy surged back in my bones and I practically ran to finish the W trek the last 5-10 minutes of the hike.

Definitely book early if you want a bed at a refugio. My guess is most refugios only have about 30-50 beds.

November 2018: Planning for Patagonia

December 2, 2018

Planning for Patagonia is not logistically easy. It basically took me and my friends three days to get to Torres del Paine (pronounced Torres del “Pine-ay”), which resides in Chile, from NYC. Most people fly into Santiago, Chile to travel to Torres del Paine but we chose to go through Buenos Aires, Argentina as we wanted to end our trip visiting the vineyards of Mendoza.

This is the fourth time I attempted to plan this trip and I’m glad I waited this long. The first time I looked into going was more than 10 years ago and information on Torres del Paine is not as plentiful as it is today. The internet/communication infrastructure has probably improved over this period of time as well and a lot of things in place years ago are no longer. Four years ago I went to Argentina to visit Iguazu Falls (amazing, highly recommend waterfall lovers to go) and had to pay a $100 or so reciprocity fee (valid for 10 years) to get into the country. Well, apparently as of last year that’s no longer in place. In addition, the last time I was in Argentina, I had to exchange all my money on the ‘black market’ because the exchange rate was fixed as $1 USD = 8 pesos (on the black market you could get up to 12 or 14 pesos) and today, $1 USD = 35-38 pesos!

Anyway, planning a trip to Torres del Paine is no easy feat unless you have a lot of time on your hands. You need to register with the park and also make reservations in advance if you want to stay at the limited number of refugios (hostel lodges) in the park. From what I read on the internet, booking a bed or tent at the refugios was frustrating (payment won’t go through, people don’t respond, sold out, etc.) so early on my friends and I decided to bite the bullet and sign up with a tour guide instead to do all the bookings for us.

After a bunch of research, we decided to go with Swoop Patagonia. They have a flashy website and were very responsive and their itinerary worked out for us. However, as soon as we said yes to booking, they turned us over to Chile Nativo! So it turns out Swoop Patagonia is a 3rd party seller of tours and Chile Native is the local operator who actually takes you on the tour. It worked out anyway though as we LOVED Chile Nativo (and after speaking with them, I can see why they need Swoop—the agency has been around for over 15 years but is a small-run tour operator which has grown bigger in the last year and they just haven’t done as much marketing as they can be doing).

We found the price to be reasonable for our budget (we did the 5-day trek for $1695) though yes, if you planned this on your own, you’d be saving more than half. We just didn’t have the time to plan it all ourselves so to us, it was worth it. And no one in our group is an experienced camper or hiker so we felt more comfortable going with a guide in case something happened or someone got sick/injured but you don’t really need one. The trails on the W Trek are all well marked paths.

When I was doing my research for the tour, I read many mixed things about going either west to east or east to west on the W Trek (the other option is the O trek, which is much longer and you’ll see all of the park while the W hits the highlights). As Torres del Paine is known for its wind, most people suggested going west to east (to move along with the winds) but I am SUPER glad we went with Chile Nativo and did the route from east to west. I think this route is better because:

you’re moving along with the sun (if it is sunny—this will be incredibly helpful, hiking without the sun in your eyes)
we got the hardest part of the hike over on day 1, going up to the Blue Towers (which is what Torres del Paine means)

This is literally what you can expect from hiking Torres del Paine. Our trip started at Refugio Las Torres and we stayed overnight in Los Cuernos, Paine Grande, and Grey. The first day of the hike to the Base of the Towers was the hardest (22 km rou… — This is literally what you can expect from hiking Torres del Paine. Our trip started at Refugio Las Torres and we stayed overnight in Los Cuernos, Paine Grande, and Grey. The first day of the hike to the Base of the Towers was the hardest (22 km roundtrip back to Refugio Las Torres) and took 8 hours.

In addition to planning all our accommodations, meals, and guides in Torres del Paine, Chile Nativo also booked our first and last night in Puerto Natales (the gateway into the park). We stayed at Hotel Vendaval, which was a wonderful stay, and you’re able to leave whatever luggage you’re NOT taking into the park here (which we found to be safe and we had locks on our luggage as well).

Getting to Torres del Paine from New York City

We traveled through four airports, two taxi rides, and two buses over a 72 hour period to get to Torres del Paine. We flew with Aerolineas Argentina (pretty decent airline, I have no complaints—besides the very first 5 minutes of my trip, the check ins were smooth, service was friendly, and had no issues traveling with this line). In summary, these were our travel logistics:

On Tuesday, Nov. 6, we took a 3:30 pm direct flight from JFK to EZE, the international airport in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The trip may have started off on the wrong foot had I not watched out for my luggage! I ended up bringing just two pieces—a carry-on size hiking backpack for the trek and a carry-on size suitcase that I checked in. Well, while the Aerolineas Argentina agent gave me my plane ticket at check in, I noticed he totally forgot about my checked-in bag! When I asked him about it, his eyes got wide and said “Oh, yes! Sorry about that!” and ticketed my luggage, stuck the slips on, and put it on the conveyor belt. Had I not watched/said anything, who knows if my luggage would’ve made it out! Probably not, since he didn’t even issue a luggage ticket until I asked! My other friend also had an issue with her luggage and bringing on her trekking poles. Mine were foldable and hidden but hers were bigger and sticking out and had metal tips and they had to recall her luggage (after she checked it in) to put the metal tips away. They wouldn’t let her pass security otherwise. Anyway, after the luggage issues, we otherwise had a smooth overnight flight and arrived in EZE by 4 am, and in November, Buenos Aires is two hours ahead of NYC.
By the time we got our luggage and through customs, it was 6 am. I was paranoid about getting money from the ATM (last time I was in Argentina my cards didn’t work at all!) so I exchanged U.S. dollars at Banco Nacional, a local Argentinian bank. The bank is located directly outside the luggage, to the right. ATMs may have a limit to how much you can withdraw every day so I withdrew $600 USD which was more than enough to get me through the two week trip (most places except taxi cabs take credit card). The exchange rate I got it for was AR 34.60 vs. the official rate at the time of 35-36 pesos so not much of a difference. And if you do use the ATM, you will probably pay additional fees there too.
We booked a car transfer with Taxi Ezeiza. I made the rsvp a few days beforehand online and they charged $35 USD for 4 people. They’re also located right outside the luggage terminal, at a big booth and if you make a rsvp your name will be on a sign at the desk. You can pay in dollars or pesos (or in credit card). We had rush hour traffic and it took just over an hour to get to AEP, which is the domestic airport in Buenos Aires.
From AEP, we took a 12:15 pm flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, Argentina. You can either fly to El Calafate to get to Puerto Natales (the last town before Torres del Paine) or to Punta Arenas, Chile (which is further south than Puerto Natales). Two of my friends told me there was NOTHING to see in Punta Arenas whereas in El Calafate you at least have the Perito Moreno Glacier so I’m glad we stuck to El Calafate. Also, if you plan to visit more of Argentina after Torres del Paine, it’s cheaper to fly within Argentina than to fly to Chile and then back to Argentina. We arrived in El Calafate by 3:30 pm and grabbed a taxi to pick up our bus tickets for the next day’s trip to Puerto Natales. The bus terminal is about 15 min. away from the airport and costs like $10 USD to get there by taxi. We had to pick up our tickets the day before because they needed to verify our passport info for the border crossing. The bus office (Cootra) closes at 4:30 pm so keep this in mind if you choose to use them and fly into El Calafate before then! We stayed overnight at Hostal Gnomos, which is a 5 min. walk from the bus station.
The next day: woke up early to catch the 7:30 am bus to Puerto Natales. We got to the bus station by 7 am though as we heard horror stories of buses leaving without people if they were not on time. The Cootra bus was quite nice and comfortable. It’s a double decker bus (you can reserve seats in advance) and there is a bathroom on board for the 5-6 hour drive. The driver didn’t really speak English though but we figured things out. By the time we got to the border crossing it was about noon and the whole process took an hour. On the Argentina side, they just stamp your passport. On the Chile side, they stamp your passport but they also scan your luggage (we had no problem bringing in snacks or food—I think someone got fruit in—but from what I heard it really depends on the mood of the officers!). The Chile passport security check has bathrooms which was much needed after the long drive. The Argentina side does not, and going on the bus is not really fun. So after security check it was another 45 minutes to Puerto Natales. When we arrived, we grabbed a taxi for 2000 Chilean pesos to Hotel Vendaval (like $5 USD). I had gotten Chilean pesos before the trip at Chase Bank (they didn’t offer Argentian pesos though and all I took was $60 USD equivalent in Chilean pesos which was more than enough. I never needed Chilean pesos on the W trek, just for the taxis. We ended up using the money for dinners in town though but they take credit cards). Checked into Hotel Vendaval.
In the evening, we had our briefing at the office of Chile Nativo (literally a 2 min. walk from the hotel) and met our two tour guides, the rest of our tour group (10 people in total!) and got the details of the trip.
The next day: got picked up at 6:30 am on Friday morning, November 9, 2018 for the hiking trip of a lifetime!!!

Other Info

Other resources that really helped me for the trip:

This website someone recommended on Trip Advisor was amazingly helpful to check out the weather forecast in Torres del Paine: www.mountain-forecast.com. Just be sure to pick the lowest altitude and convert it to Fahrenheit if needed. I checked the forecast every day for a week before arrival and it was 90% spot on in predicting the weather we would be having in an unpredictable place.
REI. I love this store. I know I’m late to the game but I grew up as a city slicker. I never grew up camping or being in the outdoors! But REI and the people who work there were wonderful resources for me in terms of what gear I needed for this trip. I got my backpack, trekking poles, jackets, windproof pants, blister bandaids, everything here. I’ll do a post later on the gear I got.

January 2018 Trip Report: Cancun

April 29, 2018

It breaks my heart to see all the violent news coming out of Cancun these past few months. I've been to the Cancun region the most out of any other trip, 5x in the past 10 years. Most recently I went over Martin Luther King, Jr. Day weekend this past January and as usual I had an amazing time. If you haven't been yet, below are some of my thoughts and observations over the years:

The Cancun Area

Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum are all accessible from the Cancun airport. Cancun is the closest (20 min away), while Playa del Carmen can be anywhere from 45 min to an hour by taxi, and Tulum is about 90 minutes away by taxi. I haven’t been to Tulum yet, but it’s probably next on any future trips down there. Tulum is more low key/casual—the hotels there are more boutique, or bed and breakfast-style. It won’t be like grand resorts or anything and not as lively. From what I hear, most people go there for the more laid back/wellness-type vacations (ie yoga/hipsters, etc). Playa del Carmen and Cancun is much more family friendly. Cancun is super commercialized though, and I prefer Playa del Carmen more in terms of the downtown scene and the food (cheaper, more local Mexican food). Cancun is much more touristy. Both areas are pretty safe to visit, but you do have to watch out for scams and don’t go off the commercialized streets (ie don’t go anywhere that looks empty).
If you do go, they take both US Dollars and pesos, but you will get a better rate if you exchange dollars for pesos. So for example when I was just there, a taxi ride was 130 pesos but I didn’t have enough pesos on me and I knew the conversion was $8 USD but the driver charged me $10. Some charged $8 but others will say 10. It’s not metered, they’re flat rates so you have to ask before you get in how much it costs. I know I could’ve argued but given that I know they don’t make much I didn’t (but I was annoyed based on principle). Right now the exchange rate is about $1USD to 20 pesos but the hotels will exchange it for 18 pesos, which is not bad. You can def get a better rate at the ATM or whatever but at the end of the day I only spent like $60 USD in pesos btwn me and my friend (we were super lazy and took taxis to dinner the whole 4 days we were there). We didn’t have a problem using credit cards for food, just for taxis and tips you may need pesos for (and I also brought small $5 USD bills for tips).
- I went to Cancun because SPG (the hotel rewards) sent me this amaaaaaaazing deal for the Westin Lagunamar. The deal was $320 for 4 nights, total. So I split w a friend, and we stayed there and the resort is fantastic. However, the reason why I got the deal was because they tried to sell me on a timeshare when I was there (I had to sit thru a 90 min presentation) but honestly, it was worth it cuz we paid so little for a great place and I got additional points for sitting thru the presentation (and I stood my ground and said no to the timeshare….they can’t hustle a hustler! Haha). I like going to Cancun though because there are SO many resorts and so I find the experience to always be different. You should research which resort to stay at though, as the beach property does depend on where you stay. The beachfront at the Westin was really clean and gorgeous. The neighbor resorts were also as nice, but not as nice as the Westin. But, not bad either. Other places I’ve stayed at and liked were:
  - Beloved Playa Mujeres: https://belovedhotels.com/; I stayed here for a friend’s wedding maybe 3 years ago. Nice resort, and all their water activities were free too (ie paddleboarding). I remember the ocean here was calmer too. Just FYI the ocean in Cancun is super rough, so you don’t really go in the water unless you’re a good swimmer. I think the water by Playa del Carmen is a lot calmer than Cancun. Cancun also tends to be windier as well. We were lucky and have two great warm sunny days, but the other two days were a bit chillier and windy (but still good enough to sit outside).
  - Royal Haciendas: https://royalreservations.com/resorts/the-royal-haciendas; I stayed here a few years ago for a friend’s bachelorette party and this was soooo nice too. Excellent pools and rooms (they have kitchens). This is closer to downtown Playa del Carmen as well I think.
  - Hyatt Playa del Carmen: https://playadelcarmen.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html; I stayed here two years ago in Feb. I actually went solo and I had a great time. The beach was not as nice, but the pool was great and they have an amazing spa where I spent a whole afternoon in. It is also right next to downtown so no taxi required to go into downtown, unlike other resorts which are further away. But, may not be good option cuz it’s kind of clubby (they play loud music for the younger people to hang out to).

Sunrise from my hotel room this past January

Other things to do in Cancun: There are tons of activities and tours but honestly I like to go and just chill at the resort. The Mayan ruins sound interesting but in my opinion are not really. Ha. They used to allow people to climb them but they don’t anymore, and the bus ride to get there is long. Isla de Mujeres is also touted as something to do but I also think you can skip it unless you just want to get out of the resort for a day. You take a ferry there and spend an afternoon walking around, but it’s mostly the same shops (touristy) that you’ll find downtown. You can do snorkeling etc but it’s not that great.
They do have some water amusement parks—I’ve been wanting to check those out but haven’t. But they seem fun/different than the ones in the US.

If you do go, def arrange your hotel transportation in advance. Some hotels provide it, others don’t. If hotels provide it they will still charge you though and it’s not always the best rate. I used Canada Transfers for Cancun and it was great, so easy and great rates: https://www.canadatransfers.com/

We paid $53 round trip for two people, and it’s a private transfer so you are not stuck waiting for other people. I made the rsvp online and printed the vouchers and paid in USD cash in person when they picked us up. Returning to the airport they were also right on time. I highly recommend using them (and they give you water bottles when you arrive—do not drink tap water in Mexico, ever!).

Exiting the Cancun airport is overwhelming. People will try to get your attention and sell you something (anything, a tour, a taxi, etc). When you exit, just leave the terminal, don’t stop to talk to anyone, and just look for the guy wearing the Canada transfer shirt and holding up a sign w your name on it (it will have other names on it as well)
Do NOT throw away the bottom portion of the Mexico document you have to sign when you pass thru customs. They take the top part of the doc, you keep the bottom w your passport and hand it in when you depart at the airport. My friend wasn’t paying attention and threw hers away and had to pay $32 USD for a new one to exit.

December 2017 Trip Report: The Coast of San Francisco

January 18, 2018

In case it's not clear, I love getting out of town and traveling. It's hard though, since I have a full-time corporate job and limited amount of vacation days, which is why I tend to travel on holiday weekends to maximize my time. I knew I didn't want to stick around NYC for the last week of December so I started planning my get away back in Sept. I was in California the year before and LOVED it so wanted to go back and explore more parts. Left on a Wednesday and came back on a Monday, New Years Day. We also traveled with a dog, and note NO dogs are allowed at Point Lobos, Ano Nuevo, or Muir Woods. This time around I went to:

Day 1 (Thursday): Carmel by the Sea/Monterey: Coastal towns only 15-20 minutes apart by driving. Visited Point Lobos State Park.
Day 2 (Friday): Stopped over in Santa Cruz and went to Ano Nuevo Park to check out the elephant seal breeding.
Day 3 (Saturday): Drove into San Francisco, met up with friends and went to Land's End.
Day 4: (Sunday) Visited Muir Woods, the redwood forest about 30 minutes north of the city

Getting to San Francisco

I love my Chase Sapphire Reserve card. Most of my trips are paid with reward points I've accumulated on this card and this trip was the same. AND it was 'cheaper' (less points) to buy two one-way tickets from NYC to SFO than it was to get a roundtrip ticket. I think I only used about 40,000 points to fly from JFK to SFO, and then from SFO to EWR (Newark) whereas a roundtrip would have taken about 55,000 points.

Anyway, I left early on a clear morning in NYC but right before we were about to take off, the pilot announced we had to return to the gate to fix a maintenance issue! Argh. They never told us what the issue was, but my 7:30 am flight became a 10 am flight out (Virgin America). In addition, once we got closer to SFO, there was too much fog circling the airport and too much traffic and our plane was running out of fuel so we were forced to land at Oakland Airport (across the bay) instead! So frustrating. But, I'm glad we arrived safely. However, this is an example of why I hate connecting flights. Though I didn't have one, I felt so bad for all the people on my flight who were late to their connecting flights, nor were they even at the right airport!

My friend was waiting for me at SFO, arriving from a different city, so I rented a car from the Oakland airport and after about 40 minutes of driving (over San Mateo Bridge, which is a gorgeous bridge over water), we met up and then drove 2.5 hours down to our Air BnB in Monterey. By the time we arrived, it was 6 pm PST (and 9 pm EST--I was up since 4 am!). There was generally no traffic down the southern drive and it was an easy trip. However, it also meant that our 1st day was shot, so Day 1 of our trip didn't really start until Thursday.

Day 1

We were up bright and early and headed over to Point Lobos State Natural Park. This place is gorgeous and great for easy walks/hikes along the shore. Download and print the map before you go, as they charge for it otherwise. Also, be sure to get there early (like between 8 am and 10 am)--there is limited parking ($10) and if it gets full, you'll have to park outside on the main road and walk in (which would a lot more walking). I think we arrived here around 9 am and had no issues with parking. We parked near the Sea Lion trail (bathrooms are clean but bring hand sanitizer and maybe your own paper!) and walked all the way down from there to China Cove. I think that was about a 2 mile walk one way. Then when we returned, we walked up Allan Memorial Grove and from there, you can hear seals out in the ocean and if you're lucky, blowholes from whales! Very scenic and pretty. None of the paths were strenuous though there as some areas with stairs. Great for any age/fitness level.

After hitting up Point Lobos, you can continue driving south to the Bixby Bridge, one of the most photographed bridges in the U.S. It's about 15-20 minutes away and just pay attention to pull out to a small parking area right before the bridge. The roads are only two lanes (coming and going) but it's not a scary drive in my opinion. The picture above is right from the parking lot. If you're a fan of the HBO show Big Little Lies, this is featured on the show and I'm pretty sure both Reese Witherspoon and Nicole Kidman filmed driving around here!

Afterwards, we headed over to Pebble Beach and the 17-Mile Drive. This is basically a gated community but they allow the public to come through and wander around the beach areas. It costs $10.25 to drive through and the directions are marked on the road where to turn, etc. They give you a map with points of interests to go to, so it's easy to follow along. It was very pretty but I think if you've already done Point Lobos, you don't really need to do Pebble Beach. It's nice, but not as rugged and you have to drive from spot to spot. You can get out and walk around anywhere, but because of the traffic and crowds, I'd recommend going here earlier in the day or not at all because the scenery is pretty much the same. There are golf resorts in the community and a cute shopping area but not 'must-sees' unless you're just looking to kill some time.

Then we drove over to nearby Asilomar Beach, which is 15 minutes north of Pebble Beach, and watched the sunset. There is no formal parking, just come right before sunset and find off the highway parking if you can!

To eat around Monterey, both Schooners and Hula Island Grill were great. In particular, the clam chowder at Schooners was amazing and probably one of the best chowders I've ever had. Something about the creamy broth is different than the standard chowders I've had. Hula Island is more casual and doesn't take rsvps but they have a ton of seafood variety and non-seafood items to choose from. There's another location in Santa Cruz (though we did not go again).

Day 2

In the morning we checked out Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey. It's similar to a lot of other California wharfs, catered to tourists and where you can take whale sight seeing tours. However, we really came by to see the coffee shop featured in Big Little Lies (yes, that show inspired this trip with its amazing Pacific Coast views!) and we were SHOCKED to find out the coffee shop is actually an Italian restaurant called Paluca Trattoria. I'm sure Hollywood has pulled this scheme many times but I really expected to find a real coffee shop here. It wasn't open when we came in the morning (opens at noon) but I totally would've gotten a coffee here just because!

Around 9:30 am we left Monterey and headed over to Santa Cruz, which is about 40 minutes north. We checked into our Air BnB, grabbed a salad to go from a local place called the Picnic Basket (wow it was so good and fresh) and then headed straight to Ano Nuevo Park, as we had 1 pm tickets to the Elephant Seal Breeding tour. I had heard about the tour while researching for this trip and so glad I came across it. Apparently thousands of elephant seals, which are only found on the Pacific Coast, come up to Ano Nuevo Park for breeding every Dec-March. The park does guided walks that you need to book in advance (I think the rsvp system opens up more than 30 days in advance) and for less than $15, you get to be amongst these amazing mammals (parking is another $10 though).

After arriving at the park, you check into the Marina Education Center, which is where the barn is. Everyone gets a wristband, and then is told to walk one mile out to the meeting point at the shed above. There, you're greeted by a park volunteer who takes you down to the beach to see these massive beasts. End of December was still early for breeding season, there were only 20 newborn pups so far and maybe less than a 100 seals. The ranger said in a few more weeks the beach will be stacked with seals. The tour lasts about 2-2.5 hours, they take you to 3 points to see the seals and most of the time you're behind some sand dune/cliff/ridge and you are advised to keep at least 25 feet away. It was really interesting to hear the history and life cycle of the seals, great activity for anyone except anyone who has mobility issues. Hiking through the sand was a bit tough (also, wear hiking shoes to keep your feet sand free!) as there were a few slopes up and down and the ranger doesn't really wait that long for everyone so if you're really slow and have mobility issues, this may not be for you. Also, poisonous oak is everywhere (there are signs though) but as long as you stick to the marked paths you're fine.

Day 3

On Saturday we drove into San Francisco and went up to Land's End, which is right at the northern end of the city. Parking lot was full when we arrived at 11 am, but we were able to find free street parking in the residential areas nearby. It's a great place to go for a few hours to walk off a meal and get some good nature viewing in! There are multiple paths to take and we just went for a stroll to see the bridge but we didn't go to the end (Eagle's Point). In any case, this place is free and full of locals and tourists and awesome views of the Golden Gate Bridge (first pic of this post!)

In the evening we met up with friends for dinner and drinks (recommend going to Bellota and China Live's speakeasy).

Day 4

By Sunday we were exhausted with all the hiking, driving, and running around for the past few days but we managed to get up and get to Muir Woods pretty early. Starting on Jan. 16, 2018, you can no longer just show up though. Reservations are needed due to limited parking. We got there before 9 am and was able to get parking.

Anyway we were tired so we only did a 2 mile loop round but the forest was nice and has a lot of trails. Definitely print out a map and get ready to be inspired! The first United Nations peace conference took place here in 1945 to honor Franklin Roosevelt, who made it a point to create national parks during his tenure. There's a plaque marking the spot of the assembly and the redwood trees were cool to see. Wish I had more energy to enjoy it but overall this trip was a great getaway from city life and highly recommend it for anyone who wants some nature in their life!

November 2017 - Bermuda for Thanksgiving Trip Report

January 9, 2018

About a year ago, I knew there was no way I wanted to stay in NYC for Thanksgiving weekend. I grew up here my whole life so the magic of the holidays in NYC is not as appealing to me as it is for others. I also really hate the cold and knew I wanted to go away, but where could I go that would be close by, warm, and easy to travel around?

In Feb. of last year I found a pretty good deal to visit Bermuda for about $1,300 including flight and hotel. I've been stalking going to Bermuda for a few years and in general I would say going in the summertime, it usually costs more than $1,500 for flight and hotel. I booked on Expedia.com as usual, because if you also use www.upromise.com, which is a cash back rebate site similar to ebates.com and you get like 3% cash back on vacation combos.

I've always heard amazing things about Bermuda and always wanted to check it out. So is going to Bermuda for Thanksgiving weekend worth it? I will break down the pros and cons.

Pros:

Such a short flight! I think it's just 2-2.5 hours away from NYC. Note there is also a one hour time difference.
Locals are really friendly. I don't find that to be the case at all island countries but in Bermuda, it felt very safe and people were helpful. There's a significant expatriate community due to all the companies that have offices there for tax purposes so you'll see a good mix of people.
No Zika. Apparently, mosquitoes can't thrive in Bermuda since there is no standing body of fresh water. Bermuda is surrounded by the salty ocean.
Easy to get around. You can't really rent a car due to limits on cars on the road, but it's pretty easy to get around on the local buses. There's not that many roads either, so everything kind of moves directionally.
Gorgeous clear blue water. Even on a cloudy day, the water was a brilliant shade of blue! It's because Bermuda sits on very white sand reef. So diving, snorkeling here is good.
The island is on the same latitude as the Carolinas, it's not as far south as the Caribbean islands. As such, Bermuda is not within the usual path of hurricanes.

Cons:

Everything on the island is expensive! Particularly the food. There are some affordable options but for the most part, eating here is as pricey or more than an average meal in NYC.
Weather in November is hit or miss. I was there from Wed through Sunday during Thanksgiving weekend and it rained pretty hard all day half the time. It was warmer than being in NYC (it was about 60s-70s) but the rain was a drag.
Not much to do on the island. Yes there are a ton of beaches to explore and some caves and museums to see, but if you're a well-traveled person, this place won't be as interesting from a cultural or activity perspective. There are things to see, but at this point in my traveling, I'm sick of seeing naval fortresses unless they're intricately designed/different. On the other hand, if you haven't been to many other islands, you may find their local attractions more appealing.
Had the weather been nicer, I would have liked to gone on a glass bottom boat tour since the water seems to be clear. I probably would've had a nicer time in the summer but it's also more expensive to go then.

Overall

Bermuda was a good weekend getaway from NYC but would I recommend it for Thanksgiving weekend? Yes, if you've always wanted to check it out and you want to get a better deal than going in the summertime. No, if you travel a lot and have been to a lot of other island getaways. Of all the islands I've been to, this is probably one of my least favorite. It was very pretty and nice, but just boring to me. The weather played a factor as well. I think the weather was pretty good the weekend before we arrived so it's a gamble. When it rained, it rained pretty much the whole day and at times, very heavily. The food was good, but not that amazing that you should go there just for that. Plus it's so expensive to eat there. However, it really is an easy trip from NYC so I'm glad I got to see it but I would never want to return unless I was going there for free!

I stayed at the Princess Hotel in Hamilton, Bermuda (a Fairmont resort) and it was good for its location. It's not on the beach, it's close to downtown Hamilton (a 10-15 min. walk) but I picked that in case the weather wasn't great. They have a free shuttle to the beach though which gets PACKED so definitely line up early for it.

Highlights:

Horseshoe Bay is gorgeous. Pink sand beaches hug the turquoise shoreline. In off season though, there are no services (ie bring your own food, beach towel, chair, etc.)
Eat at Hog Penny Pub. Apparently the inspiration for Cheers, the Boston pub, the food here was delicious (ate twice) and they have a good pre fix deal during the weekday. Can make rsvps on Open Table.
Lunch at Lost in Triangle (LIT)--best fresh fish tacos! A local casual sports bar, but the owner catches the food he serves. Came back twice for the fish tacos, didn't try much else. So filling, healthy, and tasty. It's in the heart of downtown Hamilton.

Skip:

Barracuda Grill--it's one of the most highly rated place to eat seafood but I thought it was overpriced and overrated. It's elegant and service was great, but in terms of quality and price, Hog Penny which is right next door is a much better deal and experience.
St. George--it's the other larger city in Bermuda but really not much to see there. It's about a 30-40 min. ride from Hamilton by bus, unless you're really bored and have nothing to do then go visit but not a must-see, in my opinion. Ferries do not run from Hamilton to St. George in off-season.
Royal Navy Dockyard--tourist attraction. Go if you've never seen anything similar, otherwise nothing to write home about this place. You can take a ferry to here from Hamilton during off season though.

May 2017 Trip Report: Amalfi/Ravello/Positano (Day 9)

May 27, 2017

Thursday was an amazing day. It started off kind of bleak--it was drizzling in Positano so not a good time to relax on the beach. I knew Friday's weather was supposed to better for the beach so I decided to head over to Amalfi and Ravello instead. I'm so glad I did because even though Amalfi is so close by, it was sunny!

I wish I started my day off earlier. In my opinion, taking the ferry boat over is way better than the public bus since you don't know when it might arrive. I wish I had gotten on the 10 am ferry from Positano to Amalfi but I took the 11:10 am instead after I had breakfast at my B&B (they have umbrellas!) and got ready, etc. The ferry fare one way was 8 euros and I bought a roundtrip ticket. You buy them right off the ferry deck to the right of Spagio Beach (I checked/took snapshots of the schedule the day before). I knew the last ferry back was at 6 pm but I didn't want to risk being caught in a huge crowd so I aimed for the one before that, at 4:20 pm.

Anyway the ferry ride from Positano to Amalfi was fine, it was raining at the time so didn't really see much and was sitting below deck indoors. Within 25 minutes we reached Amalfi though and the sky was clear and the sun was shining!

In order to get to Ravello, I knew the public bus was the only way to get up there since it sits on top of Amalfi. I found out from the information desk that you can't buy tickets on the bus, you must get them from the Tabacchi shop right across from the bus stop (there is a huge awning that indicates it's a bus stop for all the Amalfi Coast towns--it's about a 5 minute walk to the right as you leave the ferry dock near the parking lot). Tickets were really cheap (2.80 euros I think) compared to taking a taxi up to Ravello which can be 30 euros or so. The bus supposedly comes every 30 minutes so I waited for the 12:15 pm bus with throngs of other tourists.

However as I waited for the bus I started to doubt I could even get on it!!! There were so many people waiting!!!!! Also 12:15 came and went and no sign of the public bus but lots of traffic going by. At the same bus stop, there is also the red tourist bus where you can jump on/off. Luckily there is a city sight seeing tour bus just going between Ravello and Amalfi and it doesn't make any other stops. I asked how much it was and it was 5 euros one way, 9.50 roundtrip. I decided to spend the extra money as I was limited on time, plus the bus was open air which makes it great for pictures and more comfortable to sit in anyway. I'm so glad I did this because I got to Ravello way earlier and more comfortable than if I took the public bus (and I saw so many other public buses that were crowded and packed w tourists standing). So totally skip the public bus and spend the little extra on the red tourist bus for comfort and convenience. Plus you get to hear interesting facts along the way on the tourist bus. The red bus also comes and goes every half hour (whenever it's :15 or 45). It's more reliable since it doesn't stop anywhere else.

By the time I got up to Ravello it was 12:45 pm and I knew if I wanted to see Amalfi town too and get on the 4:20 pm ferry back to Positano, I needed to leave Ravello either by 1:45 or 2:15. So as soon as I got up there I speedwalked everywhere!

Ravello is breathtaking though. I really wish I spent at least a half day, not just a couple of hours. Or even a whole day! It's just so pretty and charming. It truly is a garden city. It is very small so you can see most it in a couple of hours but to really enjoy and take it in, I think half or full day is better. Especially compared to Amalfi which was soooo congested and not as pretty.

The views to the coast are amazing! I thought Oia on Santorini was beautiful (and it is) but I love how Ravello was short and sweet. I didn't have time to eat lunch since I was trying to cram so much sight seeing in a short amount of time.

The main square is lovely and wish I had time to sit and have a snack or coffee. Everything just looks like straight out of a magazine on the Italian countryside. Flowers and trees were nicely manicured and Richard Wagner (composer) is celebrated here.

Walking around town is just magical and serene. Much more calm and secluded than Positano or Amalfi.

I definitely rushed around to see what I could, grabbing some gelato for lunch in the main square. I wish I had more time to leisurely explore!

The most popular attraction up in Ravello is Villa Rufolo. Admission is 7 euros but I think it's so worth it. The villa is spectacular and they hold classical concerts here as the setting is fantastic. Great views of the coast from the villa as well. You can see all this in about 30 minutes if you walk thru quick.

After enjoying what I could of Ravello, I caught the 2:15 pm bus back down. While doing my research I read that staying in Amalfi was better as it's cheaper but I'm sooo glad I stayed in Positano instead. Amalfi was full of tourists!!!! Positano is touristy as well but it's better controlled since you can't really park there. In Amalfi there are huge parking lots which makes bringing in people easier. I did not like it that much. It seemed more 'cheesy' than Positano although souvenirs and shopping is cheaper here.

I kind of wish I spent another hour up in Ravello but I didn't know I would feel this way about Amalfi. I just walked through the main shopping area and then along the coast line while I waited for the 4:20 ferry. I did pick up a small bottle of limoncello for 4 euros (among the cheapest I saw and it had a label verifying that it's made with Amalfi lemons).

The ferries run pretty on time so definitely show up 5-10 minutes before so you don't miss them. There's usually a sign on the boats that say what the next destination is so just look for that as there are many boats that come and go on the dock. There are organizers who will tell you as well.

The ferry ride back was beautiful as the weather was better and I got to sit outside on top of the boat.

After I was back in Positano, I headed back to my room and took a shower. I was dying for a great meal and all the highly rated places near Venus B&B were booked up!! I was not deterred though. I headed over to Da Vincenzo, which I really wanted to try, and at 6:15 pm it was pretty empty since everyone eats later. I asked if I could eat right now and they said absolutely but I had to leave the table by 8. No problem for me! And so I happily sat outside, right by the road, with an amazing view. It's everything I thought dining in Positano would be!

I know some people think sitting outside right next to traffic is gross but it's not too bad...I could smell the diesel fumes 10% of the time and being from NYC, where I've sat outside before and would get soot or micro dust/dirt in my glass of water, that didn't happen at all here. So it may not be perfect but it's not as gross as it is in major cities. For an appetizer I had a fresh tomato stuffed with raw shrimp on fresh mozzarella cheese and it was amaaaaazing!!!! I hardly eat raw shrimp and was afraid to but wanted to try it and it was soooo delicious. And no I did not get sick. In fact I came back the next night (at the same time and got the same table!) and had it again! The waiter recognized me and was pleased. I also had the lobster linguine which was also good and very filling. The next night I didn't want any more pasta so I had the yellowtail dish which was ok. I do recommend this place for the quality and price and definitely get rsvps in advance! Otherwise come at 6 pm to be seated!

After dinner I walked off the calories along the path which goes past the center of town. You can only really walk (with a proper sidewalk) to the last bus stop in town (you wil see people waiting) but it's great views of the town in the evening.